What does 'wired-in' mean?

Mr_love_monkey · 25-02-2008, 21:06

probably a daft question, my friend wants a cooker (cheap) for a flat he rents out - and has found this one :
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/50094727

It says 'Wired-in installation' - and since I am the expert with ovens, he's asked me what it means...

Personally I'm thinking that since his existing cooker has a cooker switch, which then links to a normal socket, in to which his current cooker plugs in, it should just be a case of attaching a plug and connecting it up.

Cobbydaler · 25-02-2008, 21:11

I think 'wired in' means it has to be connected directly to the cooker switch outlet & is switched on & off by the big red switch on it....

Chicken · 25-02-2008, 21:12

It means it needs (or at least is designed) to be wired into a cooker switch. At 1.2KW you would be safe connecting a 13A plug onto it, but its not supposed to have one and it goes against regulations to have one.

Jules · 25-02-2008, 21:12

I think it means that it cannot be connected via a plug and as such has to be "wired in"

Mr_love_monkey · 25-02-2008, 21:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobbydaler

I think 'wired in' means it has to be connected directly to the cooker switch outlet & is switched on & off by the big red switch on it....

.. but if that just connects to a standard plug - it should be ok to connect a plug and plug it in there, shouldn't it?

jkat · 25-02-2008, 21:19

Cobbydaler is right Mr_love_monkey it requires a spark to connect, the total load is to great for a 13amp plug.

good forum here for trade advice http://www.screwfix.com/talk/index.jspa

Cobbydaler · 25-02-2008, 21:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_love_monkey

.. but if that just connects to a standard plug - it should be ok to connect a plug and plug it in there, shouldn't it?

AFAIK I don't think a cooker outlet should be connected to a standard plug. it should be connected to the fuse/switch box via a suitable fuse/circuit breaker...

Mr_love_monkey · 25-02-2008, 21:22

guess he'd better find one that can just be plugged in then

SMHarman · 25-02-2008, 22:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_love_monkey

guess he'd better find one that can just be plugged in then

He's going to find that a bit of a challenge though considering the current requirements for an oven. Though not impossible. On an electric hob it would probably be near impossible.

Mr_love_monkey · 26-02-2008, 05:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by SMHarman

He's going to find that a bit of a challenge though considering the current requirements for an oven. Though not impossible. On an electric hob it would probably be near impossible.

..but I've seen a fair few that have plugs on them...

---------- Post added at 06:52 ---------- Previous post was at 06:47 ----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkat

Cobbydaler is right Mr_love_monkey it requires a spark to connect, the total load is to great for a 13amp plug.

good forum here for trade advice http://www.screwfix.com/talk/index.jspa

Isn't about 3kw about 13amps so 1.5 kw should be fine?

Jon T · 26-02-2008, 07:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_love_monkey

..but I've seen a fair few that have plugs on them...

---------- Post added at 06:52 ---------- Previous post was at 06:47 ----------

Isn't about 3kw about 13amps so 1.5 kw should be fine?

I wouldn't risk it.

When you have seen a cooker switch and socket next to it, the two are totally seperate entities each(the switch does not control the socket), the switch will be a DPST(double pole single throw) type which means that it cuts off both the live and neatral supply, there is normally then a cable taken from the switch to a junction box on the wall behind where the cooker would sit to allow for the cooker to be wired in.

The important thing here is that the switch isolates both sides of the supply and not just the live(as in the case of a normal plug socket), electrical regulations have been made that stat that a cooker must have this kind of isolation. If you go against this and wire it in a non-regulation way, you're leaving yourself open to prosecution under Part P of the building regulations(amongst others).

Mr_love_monkey · 26-02-2008, 07:47

Sorry, I think there is some misunderstanding here.

There is a traditional cooker 'big red switch' on the wall - this red switch controls a socket under the counter, behind the cooker, which the cooker plugs into.

I'm not talking about pluging it into a 'normal' socket - I'm talking about plugging it into a socket that is controlled by the big red switch - which is where the current cooker is currently plugged into.

bopdude · 26-02-2008, 07:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_love_monkey

..but I've seen a fair few that have plugs on them...

Isn't about 3kw about 13amps so 1.5 kw should be fine?

When they're on about being 'wired in' all they're meaning is any connections / additional circuits should be made by an approved spark, the cooker in question will work off a plug top, a lot of them do nowadays, it is only pulling 6 amps +/-

Is there a socket outlet nearby that it will plug into, if so, is it on a ringmain or a radial and what fuse / trip size is on the circuit.

HTH

---------- Post added at 08:53 ---------- Previous post was at 08:51 ----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_love_monkey

Sorry, I think there is some misunderstanding here.

There is a traditional cooker 'big red switch' on the wall - this red switch controls a socket under the counter, behind the cooker, which the cooker plugs into.

I'm not talking about pluging it into a 'normal' socket - I'm talking about plugging it into a socket that is controlled by the big red switch - which is where the current cooker is currently plugged into.

You posted that while i was typing lol.

When you say there is a socket under the switch, is it a convetional 3 pin 13 amp type, if so, go for it, looks like its been adapted previously

Mr_love_monkey · 26-02-2008, 08:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by bopdude

When they're on about being 'wired in' all they're meaning is any connections / additional circuits should be made by an approved spark, the cooker in question will work off a plug top, a lot of them do nowadays, it is only pulling 6 amps +/-

Is there a socket outlet nearby that it will plug into, if so, is it on a ringmain or a radial and what fuse / trip size is on the circuit.

HTH

---------- Post added at 08:53 ---------- Previous post was at 08:51 ----------

You posted that while i was typing lol.

When you say there is a socket under the switch, is it a convetional 3 pin 13 amp type, if so, go for it, looks like its been adapted previously

Yeah, standard 3 pin.

Excellent - thanks - thought it should work like that, but wanted to check

bopdude · 26-02-2008, 09:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_love_monkey

Yeah, standard 3 pin.

Excellent - thanks - thought it should work like that, but wanted to check

No problem, what I would suggest is that you check on the fuse / trip amperage feeding the circuit, you'll probably find it's 32 or possibly 45 amp, this could be knocked down to 16 amp.

HTH

EDIT: I take it there isn't a hob, if there is, forget my comment about downgrading the fuse