Funny noise coming from my car

[Russ]

Originally Posted by Incognitas

Just turn the radio up louder.

I know a girl who once had an MG Metro Turbo and when the engine started to smoke she'd just light up a cigarette to mask it all

Originally Posted by swoop101

<snip>
edit: in answer to the above post, squirt some WD40 on it to shut it up.

nooooooo - a belt is used to 'take off' a source of rotational energy, if it is squealing then it is slipping, which is bad.

- lubricating a slipping belt will help it sound less stressed, but won't help it turn the thing it is supposed to turning - which is also bad.

[swoop101]

Originally Posted by homealone

nooooooo - a belt is used to 'take off' a source of rotational energy, if it is squealing then it is slipping, which is bad.

- lubricating a slipping belt will help it sound less stressed, but won't help it turn the thing it is supposed to turning - which is also bad.

Don't panic, it just shuts it up for a short while to let you know what it is that is making the noise. WD40 does not have the lubricating power to make the belt slip, the profesionals do this on a regular basis so that they can listen to an engine properly.

[Xaccers]

Originally Posted by ZrByte

I done a quick google and the alternator belt keeps coming up with no mention of fanbelts, so that is looking more likeley. And yes it does sound like a live hampster being squashed actually that summed it up pretty well. is there anyway I can check to see if it is that or is it time to see a mechanic?

Best to get a haynes manual, if you don't want to buy one, your local library may have one (avoid the one on child birth, or in car nookie)

Basically your alternator will probably be on a bracket, you can loosen the nut and bolt that hold's it to the engine, pull the alternator to tighten it against the belt and then tighten the nut and bolt to hold it in place.
Course I'm not a mechanic so don't blame me if things go horribly wrong
Check your service intervals too, maybe it's time for your cambelt to be changed, or maybe it's gonna be soon, if so, get that done at a garage and get them to check all your belts.

[MovedGoalPosts]

Originally Posted by Xaccers

Basically your alternator will probably be on a bracket, you can loosen the nut and bolt that hold's it to the engine, pull the alternator to tighten it against the belt and then tighten the nut and bolt to hold it in place.

er didn't I just say that 2nd paragraph: http://www.cableforum.co.uk/board/sh...1&postcount=12

[Xaccers]

Originally Posted by MovedGoalPosts

er didn't I just say that 2nd paragraph: http://www.cableforum.co.uk/board/sh...1&postcount=12

I know that now, but between starting my reply and posting I was waylayed by the security guard wanting to see my israel pics

[MovedGoalPosts]

Originally Posted by Xaccers

I know that now, but between starting my reply and posting I was waylayed by the security guard wanting to see my israel pics

Some people's timing is just so inconsiderate

[SMHarman]

Originally Posted by monkeybreath

have you got a haynes manual? or could you pop into halfords and have a read of one

They shrink wrap them these days. The local library has them.

[ZrByte]

Thanks a lot everybody, gonna go the library next time they are open, monday now methinks. Really can't afford to have someone do it for me so ill have a look myself.
My car sounds like chitty chitty bang bang at the moment though. We replaced the exhaust the other day and the braces that hold it on at the back near the bumper where too tight so that vibrates against the bumper every now and again, also either the bonnet catch or hinge is loose so that rattles and now ive got the alternator belt to add to the list

Xaccers: Ive only just got the car and have no service history so I have no idea when it is due for its cambelt change, the car has clocked a high mileage though and if it was done on a regular basis, based on its current mileage its due in about 8,000 miles. If I remember correctly on the corsa its supposed to be either every 40,000 miles or 3 years, wichever comes first.

[basa]

It is certainly NOT the cambelt squealing !! If that slips (it's toothed btw) you would know as there would be a big bang (as the pistons hit the valves !!) and the engine would stop instantly !!

The noise is almost certainly your alternator drive belt. Some older cars used to squeal if the distributor points cam got dry - but most modern cars use electronic ignition with no contactor points.

You have to slightly slacken the two alternator mounting bolts (slacken these only about half a turn - enough so the alternator can actually rotate slighly not loose so you can turn them by hand) and then loosen the bolt in the elongated slot that allows the alternator to move forward to tighten the belt. I use a large screwdriver to lever the alternator body against the belt tension and hold it tight whilst retightening the adjuster bolt. You can then re tightnen the mounting bolts.

Originally Posted by Russ D

I know a girl who once had an MG Metro Turbo and when the engine started to smoke she'd just light up a cigarette to mask it all

You know my wife to then Russ

[paulyoung666]

Originally Posted by basa

It is certainly NOT the cambelt squealing !! If that slips (it's toothed btw) you would know as there would be a big bang (as the pistons hit the valves !!) and the engine would stop instantly !!

The noise is almost certainly your alternator drive belt. Some older cars used to squeal if the distributor points cam got dry - but most modern cars use electronic ignition with no contactor points.

You have to slightly slacken the two alternator mounting bolts (slacken these only about half a turn - enough so the alternator can actually rotate slighly not loose so you can turn them by hand) and then loosen the bolt in the elongated slot that allows the alternator to move forward to tighten the belt. I use a large screwdriver to lever the alternator body against the belt tension and hold it tight whilst retightening the adjuster bolt. You can then re tightnen the mounting bolts.

not necessarily a big bang , some engines dont lunch themselves when the belt goes , why they all dont is beyond me

[iadom]

I thought that some Corsa's had a chain driven cam, what engine does yours have?



http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/index.ph...ycar/index.htm

What's Good

Ageing design but still a different and practical shape for a supermini. 12' 3" long by 5' 3" wide. Weighs from 835kg to 960kg. Plenty of room in the back of the 5-door version. Doesn't make demands on the driver. Good engines, especially the ultra-economical chain-cam 57bhp Suzuki 1.0 litre 3-cylinder 12-valve, often badged 'Breeze'. 74bhp 1.2 16v engine is also chain-cam. 49bhp and 66bhp 1.5 litre Isuzu diesels and 59bhp 1.6 litre GM diesel. Most powerful was 107bhp 1.6 16v GSI. Generally reliable, last well and cheap to run. Vauxhalls generally had below average warranty repair costs in 2003 Warranty Direct Reliability index (index 84.4 v/s lowest 31.93). Link:- www.reliabilityindex.co.uk Petrol and diesel models 1995-2000 had average breakdowns, problems and faults in 2003 Which survey.


What's Bad

Still based on the Nova floorpan, so stodgy and characterless to drive. 1.4s have suffered cat problems. Awarded Two-Star NCAP crash safety rating in 1997. Short runs may lead to sticking valves on 16-valve models (usually cured by switching to a high detergent petrol). See 'Recalls' about timing belt pulleys which need renewing at least every 40,000 miles. On 1.4 16v timing belt also drives the water pump, so if this fails it will lead to timing belt failure. Most likely reason for the water pump to fail is lack of water (coolant) so check this regularly. Also on 16v engines EGR valve can gum up leading to hesitation while cruising. Reports of repeated failures of heater matrixes. Central locking can fail due to failure of a small, brittle, badly designed casting (part 90540614). Costs less than £6, but £50 + VAT to get it fitted. Quite common for front section of exhaust of 1.0 12v to fail due to metal fatigue from vibration.
What to Watch Out For

Could have been a courier's car or a driving school car ('Engineering Education Trust' on the V5 = BSM). Clutch cables can be troublesome (cheap to replace). Heavier diesel engines promote high front tyre and suspension wear. All Corsas prone to front suspension wear. Check driveshafts for clonks by reverse turns in both directions. Cracking around door hinges on 'A' pillars of 2-door models (also look for cracks in the paint on 'B' pillars - an MOT failure point). Feel front discs for grooves, 'shouldering' and wear. Beware of any noises from the water pump (see 'What's Bad'). Check front carpets for damp signifying failed heater matrix.
Recalls

1995: static sparking during refuelling. 1997 (1993-1996 1.4 & 1.6 16vs only - 27,000 cars): Possibility of plastic cambelt idler pulley breaking which can snap cambelt. 1998 (diesel K to N reg: 26,000 cars): live cable may rub against bonnet hinge, lose insulation and cause a fire; (1.0 12v, P to R reg: 8,000 cars): cable may touch engine inlet manifold. (Vauxhall Recall Helpline: 01582 427200) 1998: Vauxhall Corsa diesel (K to N reg: 26,000 cars): live cable may rub against bonnet hinge, lose insulation and cause a fire. (3/6/98.) Vauxhall Corsa 1.0 12v (P to R reg: 8,000 cars): cable may touch engine inlet manifold. (3/6/98: Specific Helpline: 01189 458500.)February 2000: Saftety recall to reinforce front seat rails and replace fatigued or worn front seatbelt buckles. 9/3/2001 500,000 cars recalled to fit re-inforcing plates to front seat runners to prevent rails from fracturing. 9/3/2001 also recalled again to replace seat belt buckles with quality assured buckles.

[ZrByte]

Originally Posted by iadom

I thought that some Corsa's had a chain driven cam, what engine does yours have?



http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/index.ph...ycar/index.htm

What's Good

Ageing design but still a different and practical shape for a supermini. 12' 3" long by 5' 3" wide. Weighs from 835kg to 960kg. Plenty of room in the back of the 5-door version. Doesn't make demands on the driver. Good engines, especially the ultra-economical chain-cam 57bhp Suzuki 1.0 litre 3-cylinder 12-valve, often badged 'Breeze'. 74bhp 1.2 16v engine is also chain-cam. 49bhp and 66bhp 1.5 litre Isuzu diesels and 59bhp 1.6 litre GM diesel. Most powerful was 107bhp 1.6 16v GSI. Generally reliable, last well and cheap to run. Vauxhalls generally had below average warranty repair costs in 2003 Warranty Direct Reliability index (index 84.4 v/s lowest 31.93). Link:- www.reliabilityindex.co.uk Petrol and diesel models 1995-2000 had average breakdowns, problems and faults in 2003 Which survey.


What's Bad

Still based on the Nova floorpan, so stodgy and characterless to drive. 1.4s have suffered cat problems. Awarded Two-Star NCAP crash safety rating in 1997. Short runs may lead to sticking valves on 16-valve models (usually cured by switching to a high detergent petrol). See 'Recalls' about timing belt pulleys which need renewing at least every 40,000 miles. On 1.4 16v timing belt also drives the water pump, so if this fails it will lead to timing belt failure. Most likely reason for the water pump to fail is lack of water (coolant) so check this regularly. Also on 16v engines EGR valve can gum up leading to hesitation while cruising. Reports of repeated failures of heater matrixes. Central locking can fail due to failure of a small, brittle, badly designed casting (part 90540614). Costs less than £6, but £50 + VAT to get it fitted. Quite common for front section of exhaust of 1.0 12v to fail due to metal fatigue from vibration.
What to Watch Out For

Could have been a courier's car or a driving school car ('Engineering Education Trust' on the V5 = BSM). Clutch cables can be troublesome (cheap to replace). Heavier diesel engines promote high front tyre and suspension wear. All Corsas prone to front suspension wear. Check driveshafts for clonks by reverse turns in both directions. Cracking around door hinges on 'A' pillars of 2-door models (also look for cracks in the paint on 'B' pillars - an MOT failure point). Feel front discs for grooves, 'shouldering' and wear. Beware of any noises from the water pump (see 'What's Bad'). Check front carpets for damp signifying failed heater matrix.
Recalls

1995: static sparking during refuelling. 1997 (1993-1996 1.4 & 1.6 16vs only - 27,000 cars): Possibility of plastic cambelt idler pulley breaking which can snap cambelt. 1998 (diesel K to N reg: 26,000 cars): live cable may rub against bonnet hinge, lose insulation and cause a fire; (1.0 12v, P to R reg: 8,000 cars): cable may touch engine inlet manifold. (Vauxhall Recall Helpline: 01582 427200) 1998: Vauxhall Corsa diesel (K to N reg: 26,000 cars): live cable may rub against bonnet hinge, lose insulation and cause a fire. (3/6/98.) Vauxhall Corsa 1.0 12v (P to R reg: 8,000 cars): cable may touch engine inlet manifold. (3/6/98: Specific Helpline: 01189 458500.)February 2000: Saftety recall to reinforce front seat rails and replace fatigued or worn front seatbelt buckles. 9/3/2001 500,000 cars recalled to fit re-inforcing plates to front seat runners to prevent rails from fracturing. 9/3/2001 also recalled again to replace seat belt buckles with quality assured buckles.

Mine doesnt seem to be mentioned 1.2 8v, im getting a haynes manual tomorrow so may be able to tell a bit more about mine based on the engine number.


Small update - The Alternator belt is fine, infact it looks like the previous owner had the same idea since it looks like it was replaced not so long ago. Its actually the alternator itself that needs replacing.
This is what ive been told, bearing in mind im repeating things I dont 100% understand so I might not get this quite right. ive been told one or more of the bearings in my alternator have gone and it is resisting against the alternator belt, this is fine for light use on the alternator (Radio on during daylight, or lights with heater on low) but as soon as the load on the alternator increases and it starts spinning faster it starts pulling on the belt and making it slip. This has the same basic symptoms as a worn alternator belt but tightening/replacing the belt will have no effect.

Ive got a busy week ahead of me from the looks of things, I'll be working full-time at work (im only normally a lowly part-timer).
I need to take off the bit my wipers attatch onto on the front of my car (scuttle?) to get access to the bonnet hinge to stop it rattling.
I need to jack up my car to replace the braces on my current exhaust to stop it vibrating.
Installing a CD player, and fixing my alternator.
And thats not even including the various decorating jobs I will helping with at my sisters new house

Thanks again for all your help everybody, should have it fixed in the next week or so.

[basa]

Originally Posted by paulyoung666

not necessarily a big bang , some engines dont lunch themselves when the belt goes , why they all dont is beyond me

You are quite right Paul. A very few engines have enough clearance between the piston crown at t.d.c. and the valve at full extension. Therefore no collision. The engine will still stop though ! However in most engines if the valve stops at full push down after the cam belt has broken the piston crown will collide with it on its way up to t.d.c. - bang !!

Fortunately for me the old Ford Escort engines was one which avoided this self destruct attitude. !!