120M Question on speeds - Page 4

qasdfdsaq · 11-09-2015, 10:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by smallclone

Really sorry for going over old ground here. But can I just check the process for turning this new router into an acces point:

Superhub -> Asus -> wired via Cat5e > New router >>>>(Does this then have to be WIRED to a pc or can I do this wirelessly??)

Disable DHCP and give it a static IP address.

Is that more or less correct?

Make sure you connect LAN to LAN as well.

smallclone · 11-09-2015, 10:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by qasdfdsaq

Make sure you connect LAN to LAN as well.

This is where I get confused.

When setting this new router up as an AP it needs to be connected to a PC then right? via it's LAN port to the LAN port of the PC?

Or do you mean the LAN port of the new access point just needs to be conencted to a LAN port of the main router?

pip08456 · 11-09-2015, 10:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by smallclone

This is where I get confused.

When setting this new router up as an AP it needs to be connected to a PC then right? via it's LAN port to the LAN port of the PC?

Or do you mean the LAN port of the new access point just needs to be conencted to a LAN port of the main router?

2nd option.

smallclone · 11-09-2015, 10:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by pip08456

2nd option.

Sweet.

I was under the impression I had to make a wired connection to a pc at some point, but wired to router is easier.

Now to find out how to get to the settings page

Kushan · 11-09-2015, 10:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by qasdfdsaq

Cat 5 is always capable of gigabit speeds. Gigabit ethernet was designed specifically to work on Cat 5 cable.

I don't think that's correct, I think there's plenty of poorly made CAT5 cables that are within the CAT5 spec but won't handle gigabit very well. Especially for longer cables. I've certainly seen it first hand, where swapping a CAT5 to a CAT5e has turned a 100Mbit link to a gigabit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by smallclone

Sweet.

I was under the impression I had to make a wired connection to a pc at some point, but wired to router is easier.

Now to find out how to get to the settings page

On your asus, you're able to define the DHCP lease range and the subnet mask and all that. I'm going to assume that you have a subnet of 255.255.255.0 and your network starts at 192.168.1.1 (The IP of the Asus). I'm assuming this as this is the default. That subnet means any IP ranging from 192.168.1.1 to 192.168.1.254 can talk to each other.

What you should do is adjust the DHCP lease on your Asus to only issue IP's in a range smaller than this. For me, I'd set this so that DHCP leases start a .10 and end at .254, so the router will never ever allocate an IP below 192.168.1.10.

Then, log into your second router (access point), disable DHCP and give it a static IP outside of the DHCP range but inside the subnet, i.e. if using the example above, give it a static IP of 192.168.1.2 - so your router is on 1.1, your AP is on 1.2 and if you ever add a second AP, you can put it on 1.3 and so on.

This way, you'll never get a clash of IP's and you'll always be able to access the config page of your access points. Simples.

After that, all you need to do is plug a cable between the router an the access point. It doesn't matter which port the cable goes in (As long as it's not the WAN port on the Asus - that's just for your modem).

Sephiroth · 11-09-2015, 11:29

Good stuff, Kush.

smallclone · 11-09-2015, 12:04

Thanks for all that. But this bit has me struggling:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kushan

After that, all you need to do is plug a cable between the router an the access point..

What has the access point been connected to up until this point then?

I thought I'd just read on this thread that "the LAN port of the new access point just needs to be conencted to a LAN port of the main router"

Sephiroth · 11-09-2015, 12:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by smallclone

Thanks for all that. But this bit has me struggling:

What has the access point been connected to up until this point then?

I thought I'd just read on this thread that "the LAN port of the new access point just needs to be conencted to a LAN port of the main router"

Let's start again.

CURRENT SETUP (according to my understanding of this thread)

SH modem mode WAN Port --> Router WAN Port

INTERMEDIATE STEP

Access point LAN port --> PC for configuration.

COnfigure the AP for DHCP OFF as per Kush's detail

FINAL STEP

Access Point LAN Port --> Any Router LAN Port

Matters not whether PC remains attached to the AP.

Is that all clear?

smallclone · 11-09-2015, 12:59

Ah I get you. The configuration in the intermediate step must be done whilst wired to a PC. That's what I was missing.

My current crappy access point has an ip address of 192.168.1.2 so I will just assign that one again to this new access point during this "intermediate step"

Thanks.

---------- Post added at 13:59 ---------- Previous post was at 13:36 ----------

Alot of the Youtube vids tell you to go into IPv4 and properties of the adapter. I assume I don't need that in this case?

Kushan · 11-09-2015, 13:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by smallclone

]Alot of the Youtube vids tell you to go into IPv4 and properties of the adapter. I assume I don't need that in this case?

The reason they tell you that is, because, when you connect the PC to the AP to configure it, the PC is NOT connected to your Asus router and thus it isn't going to get an IP address via DHCP. Now if your AP is still in "router" mode (i.e. still had DHCP enabled) then it won't be an issue, but if it's not then your PC won't be able to talk to it because the PC won't get an IP address. Does that make sense?

Some of the guides will tell you to temporarily set a static IP on your PC so that when you disable DHCP on the AP, you won't lose connectivity.

I haven't needed to do that, I first set the static IP of the AP while it has DHCP enabled, THEN disable DHCP. The connection to the PC is lost, but it doesn't matter because you're done - just plug the AP into the Asus and plug your PC back into whatever it needs to be plugged into and it'll all work.

smallclone · 11-09-2015, 13:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kushan

The reason they tell you that is, because, when you connect the PC to the AP to configure it, the PC is NOT connected to your Asus router and thus it isn't going to get an IP address via DHCP. Now if your AP is still in "router" mode (i.e. still had DHCP enabled) then it won't be an issue, but if it's not then your PC won't be able to talk to it because the PC won't get an IP address. Does that make sense?

It will be in router mode out of the box though I guess, so this shouldn't be an issue right?

Quote:

Some of the guides will tell you to temporarily set a static IP on your PC so that when you disable DHCP on the AP, you won't lose connectivity.

I haven't needed to do that, I first set the static IP of the AP while it has DHCP enabled, THEN disable DHCP. The connection to the PC is lost, but it doesn't matter because you're done - just plug the AP into the Asus and plug your PC back into whatever it needs to be plugged into and it'll all work.

I'm glad you said that, as I'd written it down vice versa!! Thanks again. I Will report back when I :

1) Fail and come running for more kind souls to give me support

or

2) Log on to say thanks again and report a wazzo 152Mb/s wifi connection

qasdfdsaq · 11-09-2015, 13:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kushan

I don't think that's correct, I think there's plenty of poorly made CAT5 cables that are within the CAT5 spec but won't handle gigabit very well. Especially for longer cables. I've certainly seen it first hand, where swapping a CAT5 to a CAT5e has turned a 100Mbit link to a gigabit.

This is really boiling down to semantics. Poorly made Cat5 cables that won't handle gigabit, are by definition not within Cat 5 spec. There's plenty of cheap cable sold as Cat 5e or Cat 6 that doesn't meet Cat 5 spec either. I'm making a distinction here between cable that has "Cat 5" written on the box, and cable that actually meets all Cat 5 specifications. There's the exception of certain environments where external conditions prevent a reliable gigabit link being established over a Cat 5 cable but in those cases the cable itself, in isolation, would still work just fine.

As a wise man once put it:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ignitionnet

There is absolutely no requirement to use Cat5e - most Cat5 is fine for GigE. At least that's what me and IEEE standard 802.3ab - 1000BASE-T over copper wiring think. YMMV.

Sucky cable is sucky cable whether it has an e at the end or not, poor quality Cat5e just gets to suck right the way up to 350MHz.

---------- Post added at 14:28 ---------- Previous post was at 14:21 ----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by smallclone

Ah I get you. The configuration in the intermediate step must be done whilst wired to a PC. That's what I was missing.

It doesn't ever have to be wired to a PC, but to configure it your you need some way of communicating with it. Whether over wire, wireless, USB, Serial, JTAG or even Infrared is entirely up to you.

Wired makes it slightly easier to fix cockups though.

smallclone · 11-09-2015, 17:51

Got the IP Address and subnet mask

Do I need a default gateway and Primary DNS server? Is this the IP address of my main router?

cheers

General Maximus · 11-09-2015, 18:13

it will pick that up by dhcp from the main router

smallclone · 11-09-2015, 19:18

So I plugged all of it in. I'm online with the new access point, but I when I click on 192.168.1.2 to change the ssid settings - I get "this page is not available

---------- Post added at 19:49 ---------- Previous post was at 19:30 ----------

So confused.

On the new router I have WAN settings, LAN settings then underneath the DHCP I also seem to have the same settings.

which one do I change to 192.168.1.2 ?

---------- Post added at 20:18 ---------- Previous post was at 19:49 ----------

Ok so I think I did it. I had changed the wan settings by mistake.

So it breaks down like this:

I was getting 93Mbs on a 1/100 router. I upgraded to a gigabit router. I bought some new Cat5e. That's £65 for both

The result:

I now get 105Mb/s

So an extra 12Mb up for £65.

Is it time to give up?