Quote:
Originally Posted by Barewolf
Hi Guys.
I have options to change from AWB / Sunny / Cloudy. Theres other modes but they are for indoors. When I choose cloudy i get more vivid colour, Sunny makes it darker. And most inc the ones i added were done using AWB. No idea what that means lol.
|
AWB = Auto white balance. Light has different temperatures / colour spectrums, by telling the camera the temp of the light you are photographing in the sensor can better expose and get the colours right in the image.
Think about how yellow normal street lights are, compare to the brighter, but still yellow lights on big junctions, another place this can be seen visibly is on car headlights, the original incandesant bulb vs Xenon arc lights.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barewolf
Hi Guys.
So definately helps knowing about these focal lengths and Shutter speeds. Focal length still confusing me  |
A camera is trying to be an eye, so think about these things as the functions of an eye.
The CCD / image sensor / number of megapixels is the retina.
Focus, well focus, the eye does this by stretching and relaxing the muscles on the lens, the camera by changing the relationship of the lens to the sensor.
zoom, well the eye cannot do this, it is done by changing the relationship of multiple lenses to oneanother.
This leaves aperture / f numbers. This is the job of the iris, the iris opens in low light and contracts in bright light to manage the amount of light reaching the retina / sensor. This is what the aperture / f number does. The lower the f stop, the more light can get through.
The side effect of this in photography is that as you widen the aperture you change the depth of field, which is the amount of the image that is in focus. This is less of a problem in longer focus images, but as you get into close up images you will see the difference.
The rest has been explained well, but often with digital it pays to think back to film photography.
Film photography is basically a chemical reaction to light on the film. What you want to do is get the right amount of light onto the film. You start by knowing the light sensitivity of the film, the ISO, you also know what type of media it is designed to photograph (usually daylight), this is the equivilant of the white balance setting in the digital world.
You then can vary the size of the iris (aperture / f) and the length of time the film is exposed to the light to get the right amount of time. Same basically applies to a CCD in a digital camera.
So Film based adjustments
ISO / White Balance / Colour or B&W
http://kodak.com/eknec/PageQuerier.j...q-locale=en_US
http://www.kodak.com/global/plugins/...7022/E7022.pdf
Individual Photo based adjustments
Shutter Speed / Aperture (f) / Focus
With regard to light source, if you are outside, mid morning and afternoon are best overall as you get strong light, but it is not direct / overhead and creating the strongest shadows. It is a more even light.
Starting advice is you shoot away fromt the sun, but if you are shooting toward it you need to compensate for the fact that the light sensor is getting more light reading than most of the subject, the subject (even if it is an outdoor scene) is effectivly backlit.