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Originally Posted by iadom
I thought that some Corsa's had a chain driven cam, what engine does yours have?
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/index.ph...ycar/index.htm
What's Good
Ageing design but still a different and practical shape for a supermini. 12' 3" long by 5' 3" wide. Weighs from 835kg to 960kg. Plenty of room in the back of the 5-door version. Doesn't make demands on the driver. Good engines, especially the ultra-economical chain-cam 57bhp Suzuki 1.0 litre 3-cylinder 12-valve, often badged 'Breeze'. 74bhp 1.2 16v engine is also chain-cam. 49bhp and 66bhp 1.5 litre Isuzu diesels and 59bhp 1.6 litre GM diesel. Most powerful was 107bhp 1.6 16v GSI. Generally reliable, last well and cheap to run. Vauxhalls generally had below average warranty repair costs in 2003 Warranty Direct Reliability index (index 84.4 v/s lowest 31.93). Link:- www.reliabilityindex.co.uk Petrol and diesel models 1995-2000 had average breakdowns, problems and faults in 2003 Which survey.
What's Bad
Still based on the Nova floorpan, so stodgy and characterless to drive. 1.4s have suffered cat problems. Awarded Two-Star NCAP crash safety rating in 1997. Short runs may lead to sticking valves on 16-valve models (usually cured by switching to a high detergent petrol). See 'Recalls' about timing belt pulleys which need renewing at least every 40,000 miles. On 1.4 16v timing belt also drives the water pump, so if this fails it will lead to timing belt failure. Most likely reason for the water pump to fail is lack of water (coolant) so check this regularly. Also on 16v engines EGR valve can gum up leading to hesitation while cruising. Reports of repeated failures of heater matrixes. Central locking can fail due to failure of a small, brittle, badly designed casting (part 90540614). Costs less than £6, but £50 + VAT to get it fitted. Quite common for front section of exhaust of 1.0 12v to fail due to metal fatigue from vibration.
What to Watch Out For
Could have been a courier's car or a driving school car ('Engineering Education Trust' on the V5 = BSM). Clutch cables can be troublesome (cheap to replace). Heavier diesel engines promote high front tyre and suspension wear. All Corsas prone to front suspension wear. Check driveshafts for clonks by reverse turns in both directions. Cracking around door hinges on 'A' pillars of 2-door models (also look for cracks in the paint on 'B' pillars - an MOT failure point). Feel front discs for grooves, 'shouldering' and wear. Beware of any noises from the water pump (see 'What's Bad'). Check front carpets for damp signifying failed heater matrix.
Recalls
1995: static sparking during refuelling. 1997 (1993-1996 1.4 & 1.6 16vs only - 27,000 cars): Possibility of plastic cambelt idler pulley breaking which can snap cambelt. 1998 (diesel K to N reg: 26,000 cars): live cable may rub against bonnet hinge, lose insulation and cause a fire; (1.0 12v, P to R reg: 8,000 cars): cable may touch engine inlet manifold. (Vauxhall Recall Helpline: 01582 427200) 1998: Vauxhall Corsa diesel (K to N reg: 26,000 cars): live cable may rub against bonnet hinge, lose insulation and cause a fire. (3/6/98.) Vauxhall Corsa 1.0 12v (P to R reg: 8,000 cars): cable may touch engine inlet manifold. (3/6/98: Specific Helpline: 01189 458500.)February 2000: Saftety recall to reinforce front seat rails and replace fatigued or worn front seatbelt buckles. 9/3/2001 500,000 cars recalled to fit re-inforcing plates to front seat runners to prevent rails from fracturing. 9/3/2001 also recalled again to replace seat belt buckles with quality assured buckles. |
Mine doesnt seem to be mentioned
1.2 8v, im getting a haynes manual tomorrow so may be able to tell a bit more about mine based on the engine number.
Small update - The Alternator belt is fine, infact it looks like the previous owner had the same idea since it looks like it was replaced not so long ago. Its actually the alternator itself that needs replacing.
This is what ive been told, bearing in mind im repeating things I dont 100% understand so I might not get this quite right. ive been told one or more of the bearings in my alternator have gone and it is resisting against the alternator belt, this is fine for light use on the alternator (Radio on during daylight, or lights with heater on low) but as soon as the load on the alternator increases and it starts spinning faster it starts pulling on the belt and making it slip. This has the same basic symptoms as a worn alternator belt but tightening/replacing the belt will have no effect.
Ive got a busy week ahead of me from the looks of things, I'll be working full-time at work (im only normally a lowly part-timer).
I need to take off the bit my wipers attatch onto on the front of my car (scuttle?) to get access to the bonnet hinge to stop it rattling.
I need to jack up my car to replace the braces on my current exhaust to stop it vibrating.
Installing a CD player, and fixing my alternator.
And thats not even including the various decorating jobs I will helping with at my sisters new house
Thanks again for all your help everybody, should have it fixed in the next week or so.