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psu help
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hello, my pc has just died and i think it is the psu as it will not turn on at all i have changed all the fuses , i have looked around and you can not buy the same psu any more only on ebay . i will add a pic of it can any one tell me of the best one to get to replace it , thank you for any help i get daz300
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Most are a standard size, though some builders use odd shaped ones (e.g. Stone Computers).
A quick check that might help you:Turn the PC on at the wall, and see if your optical mouse lights up when moved. The mouse uses the "always on " 5v supply that the PC uses to switch on via on the ON switch. If it does light up, the ON switch might be faulty. If it doesn't light up at all then I would go for a new PSU as you have already decided. I use a PSU tester I got from ebay to quickly diagnose PSU faults as they are a right PITA and not worth the risk of opening..... they bite! PSU testers only cost about £3 https://www.cableforum.co.uk/images/...2014/09/28.jpg |
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thank you for all the replys ,
the pc is dead is is not turing on in any way at all ,taf ---------- Post added at 21:53 ---------- Previous post was at 21:51 ---------- Quote:
thnks daz |
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I know this is a long shot, but I have seen it happen,... is the switch on the back of the PSU on?
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Test the PSU with a paperclip.
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Ignor adzii nufc's advise unless you want to get killed. Have you checked the internal fuse, you will need to open the power supply up and look near the input socket there should be a fuse there, they are usally fast blow fuses that you can pick up from RS Comonents, Failing that check the caps and see if the bridge rectifier has not blown.
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Edit - madmax215 beat me to it |
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You may be right but would you do it then. also if it does work you might blow the transformer, which means you will need to buy a new PSU.
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http://m.wikihow.com/Check-a-Power-Supply |
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Often a high value starting resistor goes open circuit. Unless you know your switchers best to get a new unit. Beware switching supplies can kill!
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All you need to do is make sure you only connect I think it's the green to any black cable on the 24 pin connector, and it will power up the psu as if you had pressed the power button. I now have a 24 pin extension cable that I use for it, as it's the safest way to power up a psu to fill a water loop and it's a common way to do it, if you don't have a external power supply for doing it. |
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I have not done the paper clip test , and I have looked at the switch on the back of the PC .
Any one have any idea what psu I would be best to get ? Do you thing I would be better geting one with more power , maybe a 600w one ? Thanks for all the help so far Daz300 |
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Have you added any more components (memory, drives, fans, etc.) to the machine since you bought it? They are usually sold with the lowest possible power rating PSU, so adding components can demand more power which will eventually kill the PSU.
As for the paperclip trick, it does work but will hit the PSU hard as it's expecting a resistive short not a total short to kick it into life. And as Heero yuy said, it's not a good idea to go inside a Switched Mode PSU without a lot of training... they bite hard even after being powered down for ages! |
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Hi , I do know something's about pc I just have never had to get a new psu
My mb is a P5N-E SLI I all so have 2 DVD drives and 2 GeForce gts450 g cards and a fan controler and 2 sets of blue LEDs. Any help will be brill even a link Hope that helps Thank you Daz |
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Buying an excessively overpowered PSU is just a waste of money - both for an unneccessarily overpowered PSU, and also because the higher the power the PSU, the less efficient it is at lower output levels, where your PC is going to be operating 90% of the time. Power supplies are most efficient when operated at around 80% load. ---------- Post added at 18:43 ---------- Previous post was at 18:41 ---------- Quote:
The paperclip is meant to replace the power switch on the mainboard. It's not meant to be randomly poked around into any hole you find. |
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But I only had a 550w psu in the PC when it came . |
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My daughter got a Stone PC with only half the RAM it really needed to run properly, so I offered to buy the extra RAM.
The bill appeared with the cost of the RAM, but also £45 for an "upgraded" proprietary-shaped PSU... that was a whole 50W extra. "No more powerful PSU, no warranty" I was told. |
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That site, like most sites trying to sell you overpowered and overpriced power supplies, overestimates your needs by a huge amount and borders on being a complete lie. Just to prove how ridiculous it is it thinks my PC needs a 1000w power supply. It's been running just fine off a 430w supply for 5 years. Average usage is 90w while idle, 350 while gaming. It also thinks my machine at work, a fully certified Dell server with 100% Dell certified and guaranteed components, needs a 750w supply yet Dell supplies it with only a 550w - and it barely uses 120w most of the time. |
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Ok more info on the PC I have
Motherboard : Asus psn-e sli Graphics cards : 2x he force gts 450 Hard drives 80 gb and 2 tb 2x blue ray drives 8 gb ddr2 ram Thank you for your help . Daz |
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What CPU?
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Ken |
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No sh.. sherlock...
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Core 2 Duo 6600 I think
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A 300w supply would be the bare minimum for that but you should do fine with a good quality 400-500w. There's no way the system would use more than 450w (65w CPU, 2x107w GPU, 50w MB, 10w RAM, 20w HDD, 20w others) - and that's maximum even including inefficiencies. Quality PSUs can burst to 10-20% higher than their rated output.
Unless it was a really crappy PSU or a fault somewhere, there's no chance you would have broken a 550w PSU by overloading it. |
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Ken |
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