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Cars and Blondes....
.... i'm being a typical blonde by being a rubbish driver at the mo :shocked:
I passed my test before Christmas, and haven't drove since.... Until i got my new (old) car on Saturday :D It's an R reg Ford Escort Encore 1.3 (dark green if you were interested :D) Okay so i'm really rusty with the driving, things like changing straight into second gear when set off etc, i find it hardest when in really slow moving traffic to keep the speed slow enough to not keep stopping, it feels like i need to use the brakes even after i've only touched the gas in 1st a tiny bit. Anyway, i wanted to take it to a garage because it seems to have something wrong with it, or is it me? My boyfriend drove it and said it's not just me so i guess it's the car. The problem is, sometimes when i come off the gas and press down the clutch to change gear or brake to stop, it revs quite loudly. If i free wheel it with just the clutch down while moving slowly it revs, and sometimes it stalls. Now, i'm deffo not on the gas when this happens, and also i make sure the clutch is all the way down.... Any idea what this is? And if it's dangerous or expensive to fix? |
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Doesnt sound like its you ut dont you have a friend or relative you can ask to take it down the road...
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Well as i said my boyfriend was the one who pointed it out... he said it's deffo not right for it to do that. My sister has driven it also but it doesn't always do it. So hopefully i'm not that bad :D
What i'm asking is for an idea of what it could be - if anyone has ever encountered something similar |
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I've had similar happen on a couple of cars in the past and its always one sensor or another playing silly buggers. You should be able to get any error codes from the ecu easy enough although you'll have to google how as I'm not familiar with escorts that new ;) (the only one I've ever owned was an old G Reg 1.3 with the OHV engine)
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Rammy that link needs a registration :o:
i'll have a look though, i'm sure it's worth it ;) :D |
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clutch on its way out maybe or throttle cable sticking? what rpm does it normally tick over at?
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:shrug:It hasn't got a rev counter :shocked:
---------- Post added at 20:18 ---------- Previous post was at 20:16 ---------- Just found this linky, seems like i'm not the only one http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/po...ex.htm?t=22353 |
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Very much doubt its the clutch, if the pressure plate was knackered you would have trouble shifting and/or be getting slipping.
Sticky Throttle body is a possibility though, should be easy to diagnose that though. Rev the engine and gently release the throttle a few times and make note of where the engine idles after each. If the throttles sticking the idle point will vary. Does the engine rev when your rolling with the clutch in but drop back to idle when you stop? If so slightly tighten the throttle idle screw until the revs drop a bit, the ecu should try to compensate after a few seconds. Then give it another test. This actually happened on my Lotus and the idle screw had somehow come lose, the ecu was managing to keep the revs down when the engine was stood still but when coasting it would sit at the higher revs, mine didnt stall though. |
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Yeah it revs while the clutch is down, and when i lift up clutch and get back on the gas it goes normal again but not always straight away, only ever about 10 seconds or so though. throttle screws and cables..... pressure plates....:confused: :erm: :shrug: LOL. Okay so do i need to go to a garage? :( thanks for taking the time to help by the way :) |
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What I mean is when you drive along and depress the clutch the revs rise and when you come to a stop (still with clutch depressed) the revs drop to normal idle.
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Ahhhh... hmmm i'm not too sure. I'm pretty certain it still does it when stopped until i release the clutch
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I don't know what a throttle cable is :cry:
I can barely drive the thing let alone fix it :D :rofl: |
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sounds like an idling sensor issue or blocked filter/valve to me. does the car seem to hunt with the revs, or is it just an obvious, yet slow stepping as the revs drop?
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If this only happens with the car moving it could be the vehicle speed sensor, if it happens even when stationary it could be a clutch position sensor (if its got one) or something in the gearbox dragging.
My advice, if you can get any error codes from the ecu do so. Also try reducing the idle revs with the adjustment screw on the throttle body, let it settle for a while then test to see if its still doing it. Edit: Oh and get a friend who knows cars to have a quick look before taking it to a garage ---------- Post added at 20:50 ---------- Previous post was at 20:42 ---------- Another quick thought. Start the engine and let it warm up. Whilst Parked and listening to the revs depress the clutch. Do the revs rise? I believe this could give us a good idea at what we are looking at. |
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Silly question Pia and no I'm not calling you an idiot, but are you sure you're not just pressing the clutch/brake brake/accelerator at the same time I do that if the shoes I'm wearing are too big!
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Oh well was worth a try, I do it sometimes if I'm wearing my gym trainers, I tend to drive in sensible shoes normally.
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What colour is the soot on the inside of the tail pipe? If its dark (black) and damp would tend to suggest its running too rich
Does it only do this when cold? Could be the auto choke if its naturally aspirated When it does this does it blip too fast and then slow down?? Could indicate a speed sensor fault |
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Is it apparent all the time or does it calm down after a few miles?
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---------- Post added at 21:18 ---------- Previous post was at 21:16 ---------- I should also mention that the first day i had the car it was really hot weather and the car was in the red on the temp gauge, i live right near a tyre fitting garage and the bloke in there said it seemed to be circulating water (?) so was fine, anyway it's stayed at a good temp ever since then so i guess it was the weather? This revving problem does warm the car up though as you'd expect.... |
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To check the fault codes theres normally a plug that is used to plug into a computer the garage have, you can normally read error codes by shorting a particular pair of wires with a paperclip and then turning on the ignition. The engine check light should then flash the code. Without knowing this car though I dont know if this procedure is possible and if so where the plug is or what wires to short, the safest bet would be to get a garage to check the error codes. I would still check the idle control screw first though. ---------- Post added at 21:25 ---------- Previous post was at 21:22 ---------- Quote:
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Coupled with the revving issue you really are going to have to get it looked at by a garage, I would try a reputable Ford dealer and ask them to diagnose only first before repairing as they have good product knowledge and should be able to diagnose quickly albeit a higher labour rate, a smaller, cheaper garage may spend longer trying to find the fault. I know it is not what you want to hear and if you were nearer I would gladly take a look but it's the best advice I can offer. |
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BTW the throttle cable is the one that connects from the accelerator to the engine (somewhere) to make more fuel go through to speed the engine up.
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Thanks :p:
I've just been over to see a friend and i asked her husband about it - he's not a mechanic but he said the accelerator cable could be sticking - i guess this is the throttle cable you're talking about? :erm: Anyway, he put some WD40 on it, i'll see how it goes tomorrow, i didn't drive it on the way home for long enough for it to start doing it. |
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Hi all - just an update....
Took the car to a garage a few days ago, he spent about 45 minutes on it, also testing it with an error code reader or something - but he said it didn't give him any errors, and presumably that's because the specific problem needs to occur 5 times in a row for it to send a code to the computer, but my particular "revving" problem doesn't happen everytime i hold the clutch down.... Anyway, he didn't charge me for what he did the other day, and i took it in today for him to spend another 40 mins or so trying to diagnose it. He said something was full of gunk (i don't know what it was, throttle something?? and the idle thingy?? :erm: :shrug:) so he cleaned that out. But he's found a problem with a caliber(?) on the front brake which is sticking, and will cost about £90 to fix/replace... Anyway - it hasn't revved on me so far, so fingers crossed the problem stays away! |
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Caliper, it's the bit that pushes the brake pads against the brake disc which slows you down.
Remember when you had a bike? You'd pull the brake lever and the U shaped thing over the wheel would squeeze the rubber pads against the wheel's rim? That's a caliper. If one is sticking, it can't apply the brakes as hard as it should do, and so your car can end up being pulled to one side, not good in an emergency if you slam your foot on the brake and your car merrily heads into oncoming traffic! |
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Aaaaah yeah, when my fella drove it back into town the day i bought it, he was testing the brakes and noticed it pulled to the side.
My mother reckons i'm quite a jerky driver when stopping in slowish traffic, but i feel like i'm braking as smooth as i can, is this related to this issue?? |
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Just get a sign for the dashboard next time she's in the car saying "Shush mother" and that should do the trick :D |
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Glad your revving problem looks sorted. You could always get a second hand caliper from the scrappy and get that fitted to save some dosh. |
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Welcome to the world of motoring Pia....get ready to spend your hard earned cash on food for the car (ie petrol!)
:) |
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i've put £128 in 10 days in it :erm: |
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Check exactly what you will get for your repair, though, Pia, for example if it includes pad changes to the affected wheel, the other wheel should get new pads, as well. Also is the hydraulic fluid going to be replaced rather than just topped up - and is that extra? |
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The ECU was most likely getting confused in that the speed sensor said a speed and the car would expect an amount a fuel to be needed for tick over however the extra drag was casuing it to over copensate. Once the drag inerti was overcome the car would have the effect of over reving or surging. |
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If it's sticking on, then wouldn't it pull when you take your foot off the pedal rather than when you're applying pressure? Would it be something else causing the veering then? |
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I put £30ish per month in mine! |
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Well in the first week or so i was driving as much as possible to get practice and gain confidence. And i drove to Chesterfield and back (M1 :shocked: :erm:) which is a good 250 miles. |
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I dont think this is the thread for discussing your fetishes here.:D Its difficult from your description, but you can eliminate a worn out clutch by driving up a hill and if the clutch is worn the revs will rise as it slips. Your problem doesn't sound like the clutch but it may be worth trying this. |
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