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Photography Question - Digi Cam
Its my Birthday on Saturday.....Happy Birthday to me.... come on sing along.
Anyway i have been going out alot to lakes taking pictures, i am no David Bailey but the camera i am using at the moment (Dont laugh) is a Finepix A202. Its only 2 megapixel and has 5 flash modes and i think 2 picture modes not sure. Anyway its been a good little camera really when in the garden or house etc, but when i am going to the lake and i take pictures they come out very dark and gloomy, even though its not dark and gloomy outside. Trees in the background have no structure, they appear black etc. Even on the maximum quality setting. If things are close up its ok, up to 10-20 feet etc. Now my Girlfriend said she would get me a camera for my Birthday which is why i need advice. I have no idea of what camera will be best for what i want to do so i will just explain what i want to do. When i am outside, cloudy or not, i want to take a picture and be able to pick up the trees in the background as i see them with my eyes, even if they are 1/2 a mile away, i dont want to see just black shapes of trees etc. Now she can only really afford £150 and she has to get it from a catalogue, she might go to £180 i dont know, lets just say top end is £180. This is the catalogue she has to get it out of with the cameras on it, can anyone tell me which is the best camera for what i want to do? http://www.grattan.co.uk/Web/main/pr...P%5FMasterItem Also do these cameras come with memory sticks or do you have to buy them seperate? The one she was looking at was DIGIMAX S700 Which seems really good but it only has 20mb Internal memory, which at max setting only takes 11 pictures. This finepix cam came with 16gb Memory stick. Anyway any help is much appreciated as i know sod all about cameras. |
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Just a quick post from a photographer on another forum. Not quite 'outside' dark, but relevant I think.
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I just brought one of these....well impressed
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/...9-21/ref=nosim Best buy on the Gadget show for a mid range camera http://gadgetshow.five.tv/jsp/5gsmai...ital%20Cameras Mike |
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Paging Mr. Grif!!!!
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Does she have to buy it from Gratten ?
You can probably get a better camera for the price you will pay for one at this store. Most cvamera's don't come with cards but will have built in memory to get you going. You can't expect to take many photos though and a memory card will be needed. Most cameras use SD cards whilst a select few use their own, eg. Sony memory stick. I'd reccomend the Nikon's and Sony's that have some degree of manual settings but handy scene selections so you can quickly get the mode you need for the shot, eg. sunset, portrait, beach, etc. The followiung sites have useful reviews: http://www.steves-digicams.com/ http://www.dpreview.com/ |
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This is a decent review site, you can see some snap shots taken with the camera's for comparison.
EDIT: Bugger ! Halcyon has faster fingers than me. :D |
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The Samsung Digimax D103 has 10megapixels and is available from PC World at the online price of £119
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To shoot what the eye sees, you need a focal length of about 50mm, if you want to bring something nearer to you, you need more, if you want wide angle shots, you need less. I won't complicate things by talking about digital focal length multipliers, but you will need a zoom lens of some description. Quote:
Your best bet is to search for the cameras on that page...visit Tesco Extra, Jessops, pick them up, feel how they sit in your hand, ask questions about them etc. Also, a good review site is DPREVIEW, give it a Google! Quote:
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You should be looking at getting at least a 1gb card to store your images. A useful tip is to have several 1gb cards rather than one 4gb card, for the simple reason that if you lose the 4gb card or break it or it becomes corrupt, then you've still got three others with your photos on. You can pick up a decent brand (Lexar or SanDisk) SD card, 1gb for about £10-15 these days. Avoid slower and no-name cards, as you're writing big files with each photo faster cards will do you favours. So here's a checklist:
I'm sure there's a few other things to take into account, but that's a good starting place. If you need any more help, just shout. |
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Perhaps the money is better spent staying online :shrug:
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I got a fuji s5000 for sale could do ya a deal lol
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Firstly appolgies to Barewolf for a slight kidnapping of this thread but I'd rather not start a thread with pretty much the same topic so quickly.
I am also looking to get a digital camara. I don't want a top end model but I would rather spend a few hundred (maybe upto 500) on a decent camara that will last me for some time. I want it for holiday pics, family party type things (so some flash) and Live role play (where my target might be across the other side of a field or 1 meter in front of me) I would prefer something fairly chunky (i.e. with a thick grip on the right hand side at least) As I'll often have a laptop around, I can probably live without a massive amount of storage but decent battery life is a must. any suggestions? (BTW I'm not dead set on spending all the way upto the limit but its just to give you an idea - If someone can come back and say model X costing £150 will do everything you want then I'll be just as happy.) |
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for 500 quid you can get a real good camera look at the canon eos series but ensure you get a lens deal also the nikons at that price would be a good deal. For a basic digi cam you only need to spend a max of 200 quid
what you get for 500 quid will be a slr camera meaning all your setting can be manual like aperture exposure focus etc and may well be a little complicated. Look for a named model with a good camera named lens and get something with image stabilizing. There are 100s of good models so I cant narrow it down but look for them specs in say canon fuji and nikon for example |
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Others might be able to suggest something cheaper though. Edit: Wot Zingle said :) |
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This might be a silly question, but: How do I post a new article. I've spent the last 20 minutes searching for the 'Submit new post' and cannot find anything.
Gorge |
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Whatever you decide to buy, get a good case for it and if the camera doesn't have it's own lens cover, a lens cove too.
For the money you spend on a camera, you don't want it damaged. ---------- Post added at 10:38 ---------- Previous post was at 10:37 ---------- Quote:
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I'm still using a Canon EOS 300D and it takes great photos. I've got the kit lens (18-55mm) and a telephoto lens (75-300mm). My girlfriend uses it to take photos of us airsofting, so it should be fine for LRP. Take a look at some of her work: http://www.finmereairsoft.co.uk/modu...&orderby=dateD She's by no means an expert at the camera's settings, so some of the photos may not be as perfect as they could be, but she does have a nack of taking some good ones. Get yourself a subscription to Digital Photo magazine too, it's excellent for useful techniques to take photos, and touch ups in photoshop afterwards. |
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Another ( slightly less techno geek ) camera review site
http://www.cameras.co.uk/ Hows this one good compromise, size.weight,price,zoom caused quite a stir when it was available for £99 or so earlier in the year, not quite so cheap now @ £119 |
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ive got the s5000 wicked camera
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Sorry, but I really don't get this :(
You say here that shes on a low income and is struggling to pay her bills, then when she offers to waste £150 (that could be better spent paying off some of her debt) on a camera for you you try talk her into paying £180. Reads a bit selfish to me mate :( |
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Stunning post and bang on. :tu: You know whats coming next don't you. Its virgins fault that they cannot afford the £200 version :) |
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Anyone got any thought on the Fuli Finepix S5600, thinking getting one when I get paid, current camera is Finepix A205.
It's on sale in Tescos for £114 and at ASDA for £104, surely at those prices you can't go wrong. |
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You should perhaps look at some of the 'bridge' cameras that offer almost DSLR qualities but in a smaller form. The Powershot range from Canon would be a good place to start, such as the G7 or S3, or one of the better end of the Fuji cameras. Plan to spend about £350-£400and you'll get a cracking bit of kit. Quote:
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I think it would be more polite to keep your nose out of other people's financial business. |
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Thanx andygrif for that info. She got me that camera anyway, its got to be better than this one i have now which is all i really need, pitty i didnt have more time to go through it with her, she likes to drop things on me at the last minute, if she ever gets pregnant i probably wont know about it until she is in labour.
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Stu & Bill C - Dont be an ****. This is from a catalogue and ive stated i am giving her £105 today anyway. I didnt ask her to get me this camera but she has and was going to even if i didnt know about it because i am always buying her things and its my birthday, she feels like she owes me something at least that i would enjoy, even though i would prefer to sell something to buy it myself. Grow up man. Your just picking an arguement with me and i dont like it, if you have something to say then say it but expect a prompt slapped **** reply coz u know sod all of what you think your both talking about.
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As with other threads today, any more remarks on personalities will see the team take action.
Let's get back to camera choices please. |
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DW |
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as ive said ive been using the s5000 for a couple fo years now and its a wicked camera so the updated models I would imagine are also wicked lol
s5600 115 quid s 5700 149 quid 2 megapixels difference and thats it mines only 3.1 but by the looks of it not a lots changed except ccd resolution |
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Does camera come with rechargable batts and charger? Regular batts won't last 5 mins. [/quote] Alkaline batteries actually last quite a while (admittedly, not as long as a rechargable), but they also have the advantage that if they die, you can usually just pop into a store and buy more. Quote:
I personally find a lot of the smaller cameras a little difficult to hold comfortably. Quote:
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The Powershot range is excellent. Canon make great cameras. |
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That, they do.
The IXUS is quite good as well. Not as easy to hold as the Powershot though. |
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I bought one. :D QVC sold over 3000 of them in 24 hours. DW |
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What makes this camera is its DIGIC III processing which they've lifted straight from the current generation of EOS cameras its a very clever automatic system which can control everything for you if you want it (i have taken excellent pics in a dark nightclub with the normal flashing lights before, after i'd had a few drinks :-)) to but you can still burry yourself in the menus fiddling for hours! |
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I've been looking at the fuji finepix range and it's either going to be an S5600 or an S6500 I think i'll pass on the S5700, it's missing RAW mode and also a few other things the 5600 does have.
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Whilst RAW is a nice thing to have if you're planning on doing a lot of post processing, it's something that most people simply wouldn't use. Files are huge, take a lot of time to process on the computer and in most cases don't produce shots that are any better than JPEGs stored with a large fine setting.
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I've still got an old Powershot A70. No good for big prints, as it's only 3MP, but still great for "normal" size prints. Ally has an IXUS 800 IS - very nice little camera. |
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Barewolf
Try the library or cheapo bookstore on photography. These books can give valuable tips & advise on taking pictures. |
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Well Louise gave me the camera last night and ive only had chance to play with it today. Its really nice. Good zoom for what i want. 5x Digital. Not alot but makes a big difference to my old one.
Ive set the quality to medium and its set on 5 megapixel. Can only take 15 pics with the cams memory with that, 20mb. Got a 2gb SD Card coming tomorrow so should be ok lol. My problem is even at those settings the pics on the PC come out at 1.7mb Each mostly. Thats pretty big for a Jpeg, my old ones were 600kb ish. Is this just sods law if i choose hi pixels? All camera settings are on auto at the moment, Whitebalance is on auto, Flash, ISO? That goes up to 1000 but i dont know if i manually select it or not, manuals a bit confusing as to what these things do rather it tells you how to alter it if needed. Ive taken one on this new camera of my cake Louise made for me, i really cant eat it so i keep taking pics of it instead. trouble is that its not really sharp. It has a little hand that comes up when you take a picture to tell you if the camera is shaking. No i normally have a steady hand being an artist so the camera wasnt shaking, its very hard to get rid of this icon on the LCD display when trying to take a picture. Perhaps its coz i used zoom maybe? When i can compress the images i will upload them so you can see, but there way too big at the moment. :rolleyes: Not sure, still learning. Any tips would be gratefull. About the large files. i dont know what to do to compress them and if i will loose quality, is it easier to just lower the megapixel? or compress them afterwards on pc? Which is worse for the quality of pic? |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
The size of the file depends on what level of compression the built in processor uses for the JPEGs. Not all cameras are the same.
Your ISO level is the sensitivity of the ccd to the amount of light available in the shot. The higher the ISO level, the less light you need, but bear in mind that it dramatically reduces the quality of the image due to noise and the ccd will over-pickup to compensate for lack of light. ISO levels are used in conjunction with the Aperture setting, which controls the diameter of the diaphragm when open. This also affects the Depth of Field and exposure length (shutter speed). When using a camera on manual settings, these 3 all affect each other. If you just want to point and click, use auto. The hand symbol does not always mean the camera IS shaking, it's more a warning that camera shake will affect the result. You can reduce the blur by using flash. Most cameras have auto flash levelling these days, which cancels out any 'burning' (bright white areas) on the main subject (depending on your metering mode - the bit that evaluates the light levels within the image). So, a breakdown; ISO = sensitivity of the sensor to the light available in the frame. The lower, the better the image with look, but you need to be aware of the exposure level. Aperture = diameter of the opening which the light travels through to reach the sensor. This determines Depth of Field. the lower the Aperture level, the bigger the hole, the more the background will be blurred in comparison to the main subject. Shutter speed = how long the blades open for exposing the sensor to the light. Please note that with compact cameras, although these options may exist, they are really only pseudo settings. Compact cameras merely use software to simulate these effects as all that happens when you press the button is that the sensor is turned on for a period of time determined by the shutter speed setting. In SLR / DSLR cameras, the settings affect physical parameters. If you need any more help or explanations, please let me know. I'm quite into photography! |
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However, the shutter speed is too slow, so the little hand is coming up to warn of possible camera shake. It doesn't matter how steady your hand is, you are unlikely to avoid camera shake if the shutter speed drops below 1/60th of second without some sort of stability aide, such as a tripod or something to rest on. Also, the more you zoom, the more prone to shake a photo becomes, so that 1/60th sec will increase to anything up to 1/200th second. A rule of thumb of SLR cameras is you never drop your shutter speed below what your focal length on your lens is, eg 200mm lens needs a shutter speed faster than 1/200th second, but obviously on compacts this is difficult to guage sometimes. Quote:
To start emailing things, pick a reasonable image size like 600pixels by 400 pixels and a resolution of 72dpi (as computer screens don't display more than 72dpi unless you've got a Mac, in which case it's 96dpi). When printing, you should crop to the print size you want to make, eg 6x4" and a resolution of 300dpi (which is the standard for printing and the same resolution as our eyes see). Quote:
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I could go into a couple of pages as to how the relationship works, but I'd be asleep by the time I'd finsihed writing it. Save to say that keeping the ISO on 100 is good if you want grain free images. Adjusting the aperture will change the look of the image, as you say depth of field (which is also affected by zoom length) the lower the number, the more light going through the lens and shallower the depth of field (i.e foreground and background more likely to be blurred). And if you've not got enough light with the previous two settings then you need a longer exposure which is when you start getting camera shake! |
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Thanks andy and bender, you both seem to know your stuff on cameras. I am still reading through the manual and have taken a shot of my Birthday cake. I will add 2 pics, you can see they are not too good, i did have zoom on it, its not as crisp as i would like.
I took it on 5 megapixel on medium quality set to landscape mode. probably did everything wrong for that shot didnt i? All the cameras settings were on auto as well, ISO etc etc. I have used infraview to shrink my pictures file size with no loss of quality. I set some pics to 1500x1500 dpi. thats still to high then? would 300x300Dpi be enough? for keeping them for e mails and forums etc? The SD card came this morning and i had camera set to 5mp medium quality and it said i had 1500 shots left lol. I was like OMG!!!! I usually only take a maximum of 50 when i am out. Anyway i changed it to 7.1mp and super fine and i still have 600 to take with that so i am all set now for travels. My problem is batteries. My god how fast do they burn up? I used up 2 Duracel yesterday and managed about 20 Pics before it had gone, mind you i dont think they were brand new. I have 2 Duracel Ultra in at the moment, brand new, wonder how many i can get out of that, hmm. |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Hi-capacity rechargables is the only way to go with digital cameras.
The fact that it may use normal batteries is only really useful in emergency (is there such a thing oi photo terms) and don't have time for a recharge - so just have 2 sets |
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Recharageables are the way to go. Normal batteries just get used up really quickly in camera's.
As for the zoom quality. Sometimes forget the zoom altogether and get closer and use the macro feature. Yo'ul get a lot more detail, and crisper photo when taking close objects. |
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It's different if you are planning to print the picture on a large-format printer (A3, A2, A1 or larger), or are planning to work on it within photoshop or a similar image editing application. |
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Can anyone reccomend any high capacity rechargable batteries? good ones?
How long will they last on average? Like 50 shots with flash or something? I normally take my picture and turn the cam off to save battery life. Also do you have any links to these batteries that will accept paypal? Sorry i am totally new to this, never used rechargable batteries before so no idea what to look for or what is the best options. |
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Now, going back to what Bender and I were on about... here's lesson two! Exposure is measured in stops. f/2.8 is ONE LESS than f1.4 but ONE MORE than f/4. Your first shot was as f/2.8 which is a wide aperture. Your second shot was at f/4.2 (which isn't really an f/ stop, as one less than 4.2 is f/5.6!!!) Confused? It took me a while to grasp this one when I was learning it too. So, the relationship between aperture and shutter speed is as follows: If you have an aperture of f/4 and shutter speed of 1/30th sec, by increasing the aperture by one stop to f/2.8 (widening the aperture) you also increase the shutter speed by one stop, from 1/30th sec to 1/60th sec. ISO comes into this to as Bender said...in your first example your camera selected an ISO of 191 (which again is not a true ISO, so lets say it's 200). By increasing the ISO to 400 you are gaining another stop. So if we use the same exmaple of your f/4 aperture increase it again to f/2.8 and now we increase your 200ISO to 400, the shutter speed goes from 1/30th sec, through 1/60th (as increasing aperture got us this) and up to 1/125th sec shutter speed, which is a nice all round speed with no fear of camera shake at most focal lengths on your camera. Does that make any sense? (Don't worry if it doesn't, it didn't to me for a long time too). If I remember, I will try and fish out my study in first year photography that I (eventually) grasped this relationship. If your camera has one, try setting it to shutter priority mode and manually set a shutter speed of at least 1/60th, preferably 1/125th sec and let camera sort out ISOs and apertures...see the difference it makes! Enjoy playing! Quote:
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So what youre saying is manually change ISO to 400 - 800? For shots? This will reduce camera shake and blurry images? Sorry i know noting about apperture and focal lengths. Theres nothing on my camera about these settings, the only settings it allows me to change are... ISO - Auto,80,100,200,400,800,1000 White Balance - Auto, Daylight, Cloudy, Flourecent, Tungstun, Custom Exposure Compensation - -2.0 ~ 0.0 ~ +2.0 ~ (0.5EV Steps) Also with reading the manual i discovered the camera has an option of Continuous shot which can take Continuous shots until the shutter button is released, or AEB which is 3 pictures at different expsures. Under, normal, and over. Manually the apparture is F2.8 + 7.1 Switchable When I zoom in it changes values also switchable. The shutter speed I can also change 1/15,1/30,1/45 Etc etc |
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The darker the area the more you want to increase the ISO. Higher ISO, means more sensitivity to light.
You will get images with to some extent less blur but the higher the ISO, the more noise that will appear in the image. By noise, I mean spots and graininess. See here for more info and examples: http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Glos...itivity_01.htm http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Glos...xposure_01.htm |
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No idea if they take paypal but just for reference
Link Look for the more mAh - bigger the number , generally lasts longer Then you need a charger Link Most tend to be mains ones, but there are some in-car ones too some come with batts too, again look for a big mAh number Not a bad option here link main s + 12v car charging + 2700 bats x 4 |
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Having said that, I didn't take the photo, so only have the other technician's word that he was using a high quality JPEG setting. Sadly, he kept the file as well. |
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RAW is the data that the senson recieves, unmodified, so no whitebalance affected, no compression etc.
Great if you want to touch up the photo afterwards in photoshop, but as has been said, for most snappers jpg is good enough. I love using RAW, but most of my shots need to be up on the web within a few hours of getting home, so I generally use jpeg, but if I'm taking any arty photos I'll use RAW just because then I've got the greatest number of options open to me. |
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Hi Guys.
Ok Today I have been out with my Samsung S700. I took on board what people have been saying and I am still learning, however if it hadnt have been for andy pointing out apperture, focal length, ISO etc then I would have had it set on Auto all the time which would have been useless today. Today was sunny, not the brightest day weve had but it was bright outside. I took some pictures WITH and WITHOUT auto function. I was suprised at the difference it made. I set the Manual mode to 1/60th Shutter Speed. Most were taken 1/90th Though. The decent one below is 1/90th. The gloomy dark one is AUTO. And the 3rd one Is one i took which is how i want it all the time really, if possible to make it better then wicked. This was Manual 1/90th. The Focus was 7.1 But i did zoom in and out on some pictures and the Focus changed obviously. I dont understand what reducing the focus does, it allows me to change between two. If i am not zoomed in and its set Focus 7.1 and Shutter Speed is 1/90th I can change the Focus to 2.1 or back to 7.1. When I zoom this changes different values. I have options to change from AWB / Sunny / Cloudy. Theres other modes but they are for indoors. When I choose cloudy i get more vivid colour, Sunny makes it darker. And most inc the ones i added were done using AWB. No idea what that means lol. ISO Was set to Auto as well on the pictures even though it was in Manual mode for some shots, I dont know if that is a wise idea or not? As you can see in picture one. Its like what i started with my old camera. The background is dark, no detail in the trees, gloomy looking. This is why i got the Samsung Camera. Using Manual the Second picture is far better, no detail in the sky though like picture one but you can pick the detail up better, looks like a decent pic to me, Novice with no idea what he is doing lol. So definately helps knowing about these focal lengths and Shutter speeds. Focal length still confusing me :monkey: The third picture seemed to come out great, cant remember if i used Macro mode in Manual for this shot or not. Or if i should have done that. I found though even in Manual mode "Some" pictures came out a little dark while others were nice and bright. Does this have something to do with where the sun is shining? Ie if its behind me do i use more shutter speed?, If its in front of me I use less? Or is that all wrong lol. Sorry if it is. Anyway heres the pics. Any advice would be helpfull. I didnt mess with the apparture with these pics or the ISO. Only the Shutter speed and AWB for manual mode and gloomy pic is Auto mode. |
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Think about how yellow normal street lights are, compare to the brighter, but still yellow lights on big junctions, another place this can be seen visibly is on car headlights, the original incandesant bulb vs Xenon arc lights. Quote:
The CCD / image sensor / number of megapixels is the retina. Focus, well focus, the eye does this by stretching and relaxing the muscles on the lens, the camera by changing the relationship of the lens to the sensor. zoom, well the eye cannot do this, it is done by changing the relationship of multiple lenses to oneanother. This leaves aperture / f numbers. This is the job of the iris, the iris opens in low light and contracts in bright light to manage the amount of light reaching the retina / sensor. This is what the aperture / f number does. The lower the f stop, the more light can get through. The side effect of this in photography is that as you widen the aperture you change the depth of field, which is the amount of the image that is in focus. This is less of a problem in longer focus images, but as you get into close up images you will see the difference. The rest has been explained well, but often with digital it pays to think back to film photography. Film photography is basically a chemical reaction to light on the film. What you want to do is get the right amount of light onto the film. You start by knowing the light sensitivity of the film, the ISO, you also know what type of media it is designed to photograph (usually daylight), this is the equivilant of the white balance setting in the digital world. You then can vary the size of the iris (aperture / f) and the length of time the film is exposed to the light to get the right amount of time. Same basically applies to a CCD in a digital camera. So Film based adjustments ISO / White Balance / Colour or B&W http://kodak.com/eknec/PageQuerier.j...q-locale=en_US http://www.kodak.com/global/plugins/...7022/E7022.pdf Individual Photo based adjustments Shutter Speed / Aperture (f) / Focus With regard to light source, if you are outside, mid morning and afternoon are best overall as you get strong light, but it is not direct / overhead and creating the strongest shadows. It is a more even light. Starting advice is you shoot away fromt the sun, but if you are shooting toward it you need to compensate for the fact that the light sensor is getting more light reading than most of the subject, the subject (even if it is an outdoor scene) is effectivly backlit. |
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Out of the three I prefer the first one, which was on auto I presume, as the shutter speed is 1/350th sec and it gives the best overal exposure of what is a slightly complex variety of requirements for a camera...by that I mean that you have a blue sky that needs to come out, the dark green trees and the bright yellow foreground. So the camera has done a good job at second guessing what exposure settings to use in this case. In your second shot, I'd say that was overexposed by a couple of stops by looking at it. When I'm looking at the EXIF data I can see that your ISO is set to about the same as the auto shot, so is the aperture (f/ stop) but the camera originally thought you needed a shutter speed of 1/350th and on the second shot you've manually selected 1/90th second. So you can start to see what's happening right? 1/350th second is a much shorter exposure than 1/90th second, so in your manual setting you're allowing more light into the camera (becuase the shutter is open for 1/260th second longer) which is why the overall look is much lighter. For a perfect shot I'd hit somewhere between the two values for a lighter, but better exposed shot...somewhere more like 1/250th perhaps. Same goes for the third shot, which had the same ISO and aperture and the shutter speed again was 1/90th. A little overexposed...but all good learning material! Quote:
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Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
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If you over-expose your digital shots a-la 2 and 3 then you will start losing detail as jpg compression will strip large areas of white pixels. A slightly under exposed image will always be of more use than an over exposed one (you can photoshop it later) but it is of course best practice to achieve the correct exposure It can be challenging to achieve the correct exposure settings when you have contrasting light sources in the shot - in the context of your sample pictures: a bright sky and darker surface features. In these conditions your camera's light metering can actually mislead you depending on how the metering mode is configured and what you actually point the camera at. It also doesn't help that many internal light meters are easy to fool (even using evaluative metering) and don't always provide an accurate reading at the best of times. An decent quality external light meter is a good investment. Photoshop can be extremely useful (if you have it) and there are many ways in which you can further enhance your images or even transform a marginally acceptable image into an acceptable one. The link below is an excellent resource: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tu...hotoshop.shtml Anyway stick at it and enjoy learning photography, it's a fantastically rewarding hobby, hell it's kept me occupied for the past 25 years and I get bored very easily! :) |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Thanks andy and peter,
The only thing i dont like is the dark background, you both say the 1st pic is better but it makes it look gloomy. In my pics i want things in the background to be visable with detail. Most of the beauty of the lake and where i plan to visit will be in the background (Distance). On a bright sunny day i want to be able to capture that. When majority of people look at my pictures (Who are not experts) they think the 2nd and 3rd pics are better as you can see whats going on. I will try with different Shutter speeds see if that helps. Andy its interesting how you know what settings i used from just a picture, how do you do this? This might come in handy for me after i have took the pictures using different settings as there is so many, its hard to know what i was doing at the time. |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Does the camera have a bracketing setting?, this will take a number of images (normally three or five) at the camera's suggested best setting, one (or two) stops below and the same above. This will allow you to choose the best one.
The best thing about digital cameras is NO FILM. Shoot dozens of images of the the same scene with different setting to get a feel of the camera's abilities. The camera saves its settings as part of the jpg (EXIF), most photo programs can display that information (see pic). This is very useful when you're comparing shots, you can see which settings are giving you the images you want. DW |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
No it does have a continuous shot feature at different appertures i THINK.
I have just been downstairs and i was messing with the settings, including ISO and Focal length, shutter speed etc. Most of the pics i take are pretty much the same, no real difference even when i switch between settings. What i did find is that if I goto Program the pictures have more colour, also on the Modes section if i select "Measure Shutter" Instead of "Cloudy" or "Sunlight" then the picture stays bright and lots of colour appears, like greens. I will upload my images to Photobucket and post my test shots, Would you be so kind as to look at them and tell me which shots you think are the best ones? That way I can get to put into practice my snapping outdoors more effectively. :) Thanks with your patience with me guys i must be doing your heads in lol. I like that orange foto, amazing what you can take pics of when you think about it, something so simple like that. Will have to try and do that on mine when i suss out what i am doing hehehe. |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Which camera did you get in the end, I'm so brain dead this morning I can't see any reference to it. You shouldn't need to change the ISO setting from 100 under normal use, the faster you have it set the more digital noise you will get in the image. Is it an optical zoom or a digital zoom?, don't use digital zoom, all you are doing is cropping the image in camera, you'll do that far better in a photo program. Do upload your images, the guys here will give helpful advice.
The orange photo was a test shot of the camera's macro ability, I was looking for something I could get really close to, if I remember correctly, the camera was about 2cm from the orange. DW |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
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That gives a very narrow focus range, which you can see in the photo where the orange closest to us is out of focus, and the orange furthest away from us is out of focus, but a narrow section in the middle is in perfect forcus. A narrow aperture setting will give a deeper focal length, wiki has an article on it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture with some examples such as this: https://www.cableforum.co.uk/images/...2007/04/11.jpg Taken with a narrow aperture of f32, you can see the background clearly. https://www.cableforum.co.uk/images/...2007/04/12.jpg Taken with a wide aperture of f5, now the background is blurry and looks great. Also, with a narrow aperture (high f number) less light gets into the camera so the shutter has to be open longer (unless you crank up the ISO to compensate) meaning you can make waterfalls look groovy: https://www.cableforum.co.uk/images/...2007/04/13.jpg |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
The camera is a Samsung S700 Digimax. Its 3x Zoom goes up to 5x Digital Zoom in total. Im not sure how this works exactly. Not sure if its all Digital zoom or not, after i pass the 3x zoom it really zooms in and its impossible to take a decent picture.
The lens is SHD (Zoom 5.8 - 144mm) Heres the pictures i did and uploaded...Hopefully you can see the settings i used? If not tell me which look the best and i will shrink them and upload them here. 19 In total. Some are duplicates *Sigh* http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-019.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-018.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-017.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-016.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-015.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-014.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-013.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-012.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-011.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-010.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-009.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-008.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-007.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-006.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-005.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-004.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-003.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-002.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...th2007-001.jpg There we go. Best one I think is 17. Have no idea what i did there though, I think it was set on program mode. ---------- Post added at 12:12 ---------- Previous post was at 12:10 ---------- Xaccers im going to go try that apperture in the garden see if i can get something to post. I understand now i think. ---------- Post added at 12:19 ---------- Previous post was at 12:12 ---------- Nope i set my camera in Manual mode and set the F 2.8. It will only let me change this upwards to 7.2. The higher i set it the darker the image. I cant seem to get to 5.6. Nothing in the background seems to blurr no matter what i do. |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
With creative compacts it can be difficult to get a sufficiently blurred background, so either move your subject (the thing you're taking a photo of) further away from the background, or blur the background later in something like photoshop
The smaller the number, the larger the aperture (yes, I know it doesn't make sense that small number = large aperture, but it's down to a formula) so the more blurred the background will be. With the short lenses of a compact like yours though it is hard to do. There may be a macro setting which would help. |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Will the blur appear on the LCD? Before i take the shot? or is it just trial and error based on the formula?
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If you can zoom into the picture you've taken, you may notice it. |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
I prefer shots 001 & 006, good colour and saturation, lots of detail, highlights and lowlights are good. 017 is overexposed, you've lost the sky and everything else is bleached out. Compare the yellow table cloth in 006 & 017, there is detail in 006 which is gone in 017.
BTW, were you inside shooting out through a window? Here is the EXIF for those three: 001 Exposure Time: 1/1000 F Number: 2.80 Exposure Program: manual control Bias: 0/10 Metering Mode: multi-segment Light Source: 16 Flash: Focal Length: 5.80 Shutter Speed: 1/1000.00 Orientation: upper left Aperture: 2.97 006 Exposure Time: 1/1500 F Number: 2.80 Exposure Program: manual control Bias: 0/10 Metering Mode: multi-segment Light Source: 16 Flash: Focal Length: 5.80 Shutter Speed: 1/1000.00 Orientation: upper left Aperture: 2.97 017 Exposure Time: 1/180 F Number: 2.80 Exposure Program: program normal Bias: 10/10 Metering Mode: multi-segment Light Source: 16 Flash: Focal Length: 5.80 Shutter Speed: 1/125.00 Orientation: upper left Aperture: 2.97 DW ---------- Post added at 12:57 ---------- Previous post was at 12:44 ---------- Quote:
There is a relationship between speed and f-stop: 1/1000 at f2 = 1/500 at f4 = 1/250 at f8 Under normal circumstances you'll go for the highest f-stop number for best depth of field, but if you're photographing moving cars for instance you'll want the fastest speed to stop the motion. It's all about compromises, therein lie the joys of photography. :) DW ---------- Post added at 13:08 ---------- Previous post was at 12:57 ---------- Quote:
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Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Some cameras have a depth of field preview function - you're more likely to find this on a digital SLR though.
If you use a low f stop number as recommended above and an equivalent focal length of about 100mm or so while backing a suitable distance away from the subject you should achieve some nice portrait effects with blurry backgrounds. |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
I see. I will try the blurry up close shots and see if i can do anything decent.
Ive been down the carrs near where i live, rivers, trees, banks, and grassy areas. Was sunny today and i mostly used "Program" mode which set the F itself mostly, all i did was alter the exposure compensation for lighter or darker settings. I shall upload some and post them, you might still think they are over exposed though, its just so scary taking a picture using the LCD screen when it looks dark. If you know what i mean. |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
If I'm not taking action shots, and especially in the weather we're having at the moment, I keep the ISO at 100.
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Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
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The various scene options (Portrait, Sports, Landscape etc) are very good these days, I tend to use them 95% of the time. It's only when I'm shooting against the light or macro close up that I use manual settings. It's good to experiment with the manual options and get a good understanding of your camera, but for day to day photography or to grab that quick shot automatic is fine. DW |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Well i uploaded my latest shots to flickr.
I am very pleased with the results, i dont think i overexposed many of them to be honest. If you goto my flickr page and look at the set called "The Carr's" you will see what i have done today. Although on my PC they are in reverse order for some reason grrr. http://www.flickr.com/photos/barewolf/ Comments be nice, i think these are the best i have done so far ever. |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Some good looking shots there, one or two a bit overexposed but that's being picky. A couple of general points on composition, the rule of thirds is a good way of framing a shot (http://www.aea1.k12.ia.us/lois/ruleofthirds.html), don't be a slave to it but it does work.
You're also making the standard error of shooting everything from your standing eye level, get down on your knees, crouch or even lie flat for different perspectives. Looking at the images of Sasha, get down to the dogs eye level and see how much better the images can be. DW (sorry for the rubbish quality, high ISO) |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Ahh cool. So at last some good shots. Woooo. Im sure you agree they are better than any i have done so far and i am still learning, not bad since i only started with this cam on Sunday and have no idea about photography :O)
I did think about getting down but i felt silly lol. Will do though. Going somewhere nice tomorrow with a mate, no idea where yet but hoping to get alot of shots like today. Will be searching the net for places to head to tomorrow :O) |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
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Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Get in the habit of carrying the camera with you at all times, it's small enough not to get in the way. Mine is in my backpack ready for whatever I find of interest, that's where the automatic functions come into their own, no need to worry about the mechanics of photography just concentrate on getting the image. Just take lots of photo's wherever you go tomorrow. :)
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Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Yeah theres some nice places, siddington is nice. Few lakes round there.
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Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
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I've tweaked a few to show you what can be done very easily in photoshop http://www.finmereairsoft.co.uk/modu...1510639a_o.jpg http://www.finmereairsoft.co.uk/modu...069cd621_o.jpg http://www.finmereairsoft.co.uk/modu...48ec0403_o.jpg And a few of my own: http://www.finmereairsoft.co.uk/modu.../CRW_4248a.jpg Very pleased with this one, the tip of the barrel originally was behind the thin branch: http://www.finmereairsoft.co.uk/modu...2/pinhead1.jpg |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Cool. Cheers Xaccers. Will have a play round with some myself see if i can come up with anything :)
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Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
A nice little freeware EXIF viewer.
http://www.softpedia.com/get/Multime...f-Reader.shtml How are you getting on with the new camera Barewolf? My new camera has arrived, a Fuji S5700. :D DW |
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Also, IrfanView is a great quick freeware viewer and they have a decent EXIF, JPEG Comment and IPTC reader available via free plugin. |
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DW |
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I'm still trying to decide between the S5600, the S5700 or the S6500. |
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http://www.fujizone.co.uk/product_in...products_id=87 DW |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
For comparison, here's some test shots with my FujiFilm S9500:
http://warringtonbears.org.uk/S9500/ All of these were taken with it too: http://warringtonbears.org.uk/steves/index.htm http://warringtonbears.org.uk/wedding/index.htm http://warringtonbears.org.uk/lagrave/index.htm |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Im getting on great with the camera DW. Yours looks snazzy, bit complicated for me i think lol. one day.
Took 200 the other day. Went to alderley edge near where i live, suprised as to how nice it is up there, got some good shots. Uploading them now to flickr :) |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
I think i've settled on getting the Finepix S6500FD, it's selling for £199 at Jessops at the moment.
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The Fuji is my third digital camera and probably my twelfth camera altogether. I started with a Kodak Instamatic (127 film type) progressed through the Zenit E to an Olympus OM10 then onto the digital cameras. It pays to carry your camera with you, I spotted this car this morning. DW |
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DW |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
My weapon of choice: Canon EOS400D & EF75-200 F4 L USM
[img]Download Failed (1)[/img] And a wee sample (bit if heat haze when I took it though) [img]Download Failed (1)[/img] |
Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
If you look closely, you can see the pilot waving :)
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Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Is that bopdude sitting on the tail? :shocked:
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Re: Photography Question - Digi Cam
Thats not the pilot its me lol. So you like plane spotting or was that you off on holiday?
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