Help wiring new stat on vokera boiler

[dgrurquhart]

can someone please help i am trying to wire an rf stat to my vokera boiler, it says straight forward but i am unsure where the com cable should be connected into, it is either on of two black cables which goes into the timer/clock, anyone have any ideas

[punky]

:welcome: to the forum.

I have moved your thread into the lifestyle section.

[dgrurquhart]

thanks for that, first time and all that

[MovedGoalPosts]

We do attract a wide variety of questions on the forum :)

Whilst there may well be someone in our wide membership who knows about bolier installations, we are mainly a bunch of users of Cable TV, phone and Broadband users, with many of us computer geeks for good measure ;) However I suspect you would get a better answer by looking for a more DIY based forum, or indeed whether vokera can offer you any direct support via a helpline or forum.

[dgrurquhart]

Thanks for that, i did phone them, however i am not a fully qualified engineer so they will not give any advice, ill keep looking cheers

[bopdude]

can someone please help i am trying to wire an rf stat to my vokera boiler, it says straight forward but i am unsure where the com cable should be connected into, it is either on of two black cables which goes into the timer/clock, anyone have any ideas

Is there a diagram on the inside panel of the boiler ? give a model number and what ever else you can and we'll have a look see :tu:

:welcome: aboard by the way :D

[dgrurquhart]

Cool there is i will get the specs along with the rf stat details now thanks

[Vlad_Dracul]

can someone please help i am trying to wire an rf stat to my vokera boiler, it says straight forward but i am unsure where the com cable should be connected into, it is either on of two black cables which goes into the timer/clock, anyone have any ideas

It would assist if you could give the exact boiler make and model. I asume it has a built in clock/programmer? If so then the chances are that the stat will have voltage free contacts. Is the stat actually compatible? What make model of stat is it?

[dgrurquhart]

OK it is a voker compact 35he condensing boiler

wiring on boiler looks like this

block 1 live for boiler block 2 neutral for boiler block 3 earth for boiler

then on another block block 1 black com on both sides of block

block 2 is blank block 3 is black com on both sides

block 4 is brown live for the built in timer

block 5 is blank

block 6 is neutral for the built in timer

the stat i am trying to wire up is a sunviv tlxfrp, hope this will help

---------- Post added at 13:42 ---------- Previous post was at 12:56 ----------

sorry just noticed that should have been a KOVERA

[bopdude]

OK it is a voker compact 35he condensing boiler

wiring on boiler looks like this

block 1 live for boiler block 2 neutral for boiler block 3 earth for boiler

then on another block block 1 black com on both sides of block

block 2 is blank block 3 is black com on both sides

block 4 is brown live for the built in timer

block 5 is blank

block 6 is neutral for the built in timer

the stat i am trying to wire up is a sunviv tlxfrp, hope this will help

---------- Post added at 13:42 ---------- Previous post was at 12:56 ----------

sorry just noticed that should have been a KOVERA

HI there, if I have the right model number etc etc the boiler on this page (http://www.vokera.co.uk/) has a wiring diagram #45 in section 8.4 ( pdf ) top right hand link underneath literature download

If it's not right let us know :tu:

[dgrurquhart]

Yes that is the very one,

---------- Post added at 14:24 ---------- Previous post was at 14:14 ----------

Just had a look at the diagram, does this indicate that there must be two lines from the stat to the combi for the rf stat to work or just one?

[bopdude]

Yes that is the very one,

---------- Post added at 14:24 ---------- Previous post was at 14:14 ----------

Just had a look at the diagram, does this indicate that there must be two lines from the stat to the combi for the rf stat to work or just one?

Hi there, I've never used an rf stat ( before my time ;) ) so bear with me, from a quick google I see that there is the stat and a reciever, is that the case ? If so then the reciever would be mounted near the boiler, this needs the feed and control from and to the boiler, the stat itself just talks to the unit and calls for heat when needed. So yes, your receiver will need to 3 core cables one is a feed L,N,E and one is the common and switch.

If I've got the wrong end of the stick let me know :tu: And if I have, let me know what you have :tu:

[dgrurquhart]

i just wired it as i thought should be removing live snd neutral for the old timer and the third block wire which was black, and lo and behold ****in bang, the fuse on the boiler went in style, so i do not think that was it although i makes sence, hell i think i'll give up

---------- Post added at 14:52 ---------- Previous post was at 14:50 ----------

you are right in what you are saying about the l,n,e although there is no earth just the com

[bopdude]

i just wired it as i thought should be removing live snd neutral for the old timer and the third block wire which was black, and lo and behold ****in bang, the fuse on the boiler went in style, so i do not think that was it although i makes sence, hell i think i'll give up

---------- Post added at 14:52 ---------- Previous post was at 14:50 ----------

you are right in what you are saying about the l,n,e although there is no earth just the com

When you say you've removed the old timer, what have you put in place of it ? what means have you of controlling on / off times ? and what did you connect across the terminals to blow the fuse ?

What you should have is a basic switch operation, the timeclock clicks in, puts a supply onto the contact output to the boiler, boiler fires, all you are doing is breaking the circuit with the remote unit and a bit of wiring alteration which switches via the stat . Is that the way you have it ?

[Vlad_Dracul]

OK,, have you espied the simple wiring diagram here ?

http://www.sunvic.co.uk/tlxrrt.html

As expected,this indicates that voltage free switching is required. Hopefully you haven't buggered it up when it went bang.

Anyway, have a look at page 37 figure 45 and 43 (Vokera pdf manual from website)which shows how your stat should be wired into the terminal block on the boiler.

That is to say, terminals 2 and 3 on the TLX 1206 receiver module should be connected in series with the existing voltage free contacts on the inbuilt programmer.

If your totally unfamilar with this stuff, you would be better getting someone in as there would seem to be potential for damage to the boiler and/or RF transciever unit if you apply a pd of 240v in the wrong place.

HTH

---------- Post added at 15:25 ---------- Previous post was at 15:24 ----------

One point, does the boiler have the supplied built in programmer or are you using an external programmer?

[dgrurquhart]

Just had some feed back from sunvic, they say i need a tlxrfpv which has five wires, hence why the boiler fuse went bang, well thanks alot guys you have help loads

[Vlad_Dracul]

Just had some feed back from sunvic, they say i need a tlxrfpv which has five wires, hence why the boiler fuse went bang, well thanks alot guys you have help loads

I dont see that one listed. As far as i can see, there is no reason why the one you have cannot work. Its very simple,it just looks tricky !

[Lord Nikon]

Tricky? not really...

On the first block (power) connect the brown and black wires from the TLX1206 to the same colour wires in the block.

On the second block, unscrew one side of the first black and move it 1 accross to the first empty space. then connect 1 wire from the switch on the TLX1206 to where the black was removed. Then connect the other wire to the wire you moved accross.

Should do it.

[Vlad_Dracul]

Exactly,simply supply 240v ac to the power input terminals of the transciever module. Then connect the voltage free contacts of the stat and the programmer in series.

[georgepomone]

Hi All,
to put a spanner in the works. A boiler stat should be repaired/fitted only by someone who is "Corgi" registered. There are very solid rules on gas boilers. I'm an Electrician and I can't touch them without a Corgi presense. Get something wrong and someone could be hurt. Get on to Vokera and get them to do it for you. Only my opinion.
George.;)

[Vlad_Dracul]

Dohhhhh....

[r1ch]

Hi All,
to put a spanner in the works. A boiler stat should be repaired/fitted only by someone who is "Corgi" registered. There are very solid rules on gas boilers. I'm an Electrician and I can't touch them without a Corgi presense. Get something wrong and someone could be hurt. Get on to Vokera and get them to do it for you. Only my opinion.
George.;)

I'm pretty sure that you're allowed to add/replace the stat without Corgi registration - AFAIK it's only required if you're going to break into a gas or flue system. The Corgi guys here (http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=712468) seem to concur, although it seems that new stat circuits have become 'part P' notifiable now, so unless you're part P registered you have to get it inspected anyway!

[Vlad_Dracul]

Indeed ,CORGI registration is only required if you are in the business of or are charging for services. In any other case, you only need to be "competent". The issue of competence would only be tested if you were brought to task about work that you had done.

[georgepomone]

Hi All,
I comment no further.
George.