View Full Version : Citroen Xantia
Following on from:
http://www.cableforum.co.uk/board/34229151-post17.html
Many thanks for the advice Xaccers will be saving that for future reference :)
Its quite funny how I work on race cars all the time yet I contemplated getting someone else to do the work on my own car!
I borrowed a rather nice strap wrench for doing my fronts which did the job nicely. I do like the way my car handles at the moment i've managed to turn the quite neutral (for fwd) xantia into a very light oversteer when really pushed car :)
Hydraflush ... many many miles / years / probably not ever!
I've had the car for just over a year and done 6k in it. my dad had it before me and did 20k odd in it and if it didnt break he didnt fix it!
I'd shudder to suspect its mostly original fluid in there apart from what i topped up after changing the spheres a year ago (front near side failed, and on removal dropped alot of high pressure lhm everywhere! somthing the dipstick haynes didnt really warn you about, it said there might be a small leakage on removal so i had a wadd of kitchen roll ready, alas it was a wee bit more than a little bit)
It's due an oil change soon too, any recomendations on that one ? it's currently got castrol gtd magnatec (10w-40 fully synth) in it which should be good for 10k but im going to change it at the norm 6k anyway as my dad had done past 10k when i got it ... (runs so much sweeter on the new black stuff!)
i was tempted by the castrol edge diesel last time but couldnt afford it!
I've just completed a hydraflush cycle.
Getting the resevoir out was the awkward bit as it's got a peg out the bottom which fits snuggly in a hole.
The pipes on the side of the resevoir sit in a plastic unit which is just clipped to the side of the resevoir, so you can unclip this and with a bit of effort (delicate effort) remove the filter unit and put it in a clean coke bottle with the top cut off.
There's a shop in Leighton Buzzard that sells plastic storage containers, and one they do is ideal for oil changes, it's about 50x75x15cm.
I poured the contents of the resevoir into this as a coinsized disc of plastic could have fallen off the filter unit, along with a small metal clip which holds the long filter in place. The disc is from the bottom of the float chamber, and stops sloshes causing false readings as you drive.
My fluid came out really brown which isn't good, so I think someone used hydraflush before and forgot to replace it with green blood after 600 miles!
Clean out the resevoir and filters (bol says to use petrol) and fight with it back into place.
Repeat again in 600 miles with nice green blood.
What year is yours? As the way the system is depressurised is different between those with anti-sink and those early ones without.
Using a "one man" brake/clutch bleeding tube and bottle made bleeding the brakes much easier, just need someone in the driver's seat to press the brake pedal.
Oil changes every 6K and I use fully synthetic too, with an engine flush, no idea if that helps but it's not killed any of my diesels so far!
When the cambelt snapped on mine last year, I changed the coolant too (as I needed to take one of the water pipes off to get it out the way) which from what I've read is important on XUDs as otherwise they can blow a head gasket.
Talking of cambelts, they can be done yourself, which is a pain in the backside, but Citroen help by providing locking holes for the cam pulley, injection pump and crank (via flywheel, 6mm hole behind the starter motor) which you just insert M6 (I think) bolts into.
Hardest part is the covers, if you break them a complete set is only £38 from Citroen, the top back cover has a bolt at the back, 11mm if memory serves.
keithwalton
22-02-2007, 22:01
Aha found it :) yes i did go a wee bit off topic, oopsie. *ahem*
I've got a 95/N (very early N) its mostly the facelift version but i have found some parts can be from the pre-facelift. (There was a 93 to Aug 95 version, then Aug 95 to 98, i've got a 1/8/95!) From the stuff that came out everywhere yes mine isnt quite mucky brownish nothing compared to the bright green normal stuff. I was going to replace it when I did the front suspension but i was still a tight student back then!
Deprusurising is from the device on the front of the engine (nicely squidged between engine and rad)
That does remind me i need todo some citrobics with it as i havent for a while and it has been abit stiff on start up lol.
I do have one of those tanks for doing an oil change with
My first Xantia was a 95 SX, beautiful car, was in tears when I came home from work to find it burnt out.
Mine's a 97 SX estate and has the release nut next to the accumulator sphere, start the car up, set it to lowest wait a few minutes, stop engine then undo nut and wait for the whistling/farting to stop, whilst trying not to burn yourself on the rad.
Just got back in from replacing the front suspension spheres, accumulator and anti-sink.
The ramps I've got kept sliding away from the car which was a little bit nerve wracking to say the least!
Ended up putting them against the kerb then driving up them, but that reduced the access by the height of the kerb, especially when I reversed up to do the anti-sink sphere. Had to jack the car up a little bit from too much good home cooking!
Not being able to find my 9mm spanner didn't help with the anti-sink, so had to use pliers with about 2 degrees of movement to remove the pipe, took bloody ages!
So now I'm cold, wet and dirty, but the job's been done.
Oh I'm fuming!
Bloody CAS down the road where I got the original replacement spheres from not only gave me re-gassed ones for the front, which promptly split, but it turns out the rear spheres are for a Xantia with Hydractive suspension!
That probably explains why the back of the car doesn't bounce when you push it down and let go, it just sinks then slowly comes back up!
I've lost the reciept for them, but does anyone have any advice on how to get a refund without proof of purchase?
Now have to get the correct spheres from GSF during the week and fit them *joy*
keithwalton
25-02-2007, 02:49
Urgh sounds like fun :s
I decided to exercise my car earlier (send it up and down height wise) as i havent done it for a while and its been feeling abit stiff on first start.
I'd put some more lhm in the thing a month or so ago even though the guage said it was over max (the resevior looked fairly empty) it managed to drop a load of fluid when i set it fully low, oops. I just smelt the lhm coming through the vents.
Seems better now tho i do need to change the rear spheres, shame i only need basic spheres (non hydractive)
keithwalton
25-02-2007, 22:33
Having taken a look at the rear spheres today they do have alot of surface corrosion along with all of the rear ends bits :s
How many spheres should i have on a '95 model ?
So far i've found 2 Fronts in engine bay, and acumulator also in engine bay,
two rears one by each wheel and a centre rear.
Not sure if i have an anti sink or not as my car does strange things on that front! (sometimes will sink fast and fart in the process!) the book of lies defines it as early and late mk1's typical mine being a very early refit model, so could be classified as a 'later model' in most respects.
Where is the anti sink usually located ?
anti sink sphere is the middle rear sphere.
whether that means you have an anti-sink valve (which actually stops the car sinking when the pump isn't running) I don't know.
If you depressurise your system by setting it to low, then turning the engine off and undoing the bolt next to the accumulator, then I'd say you have anti-sink. The BoL says depressurisation is different for non-anti-sink if memory serves.
keithwalton
26-02-2007, 10:21
The book says there is a difference in process but then when reading it, it basically tells you to do the same thing. so whether i'm doing it right is anybodies guess
Are your chevrons on the grill or on the bonnet?
The middle sphere means you have anti-sink, suggesting your hydrolics at least are MK2 Xantia type.
keithwalton
26-02-2007, 12:07
They're on the grill, which makes is a Mk1 refit (mk1 was 93-98) but there was two mk1's ...
I probably do have anti sink then but its just not very good anymore!
Anti sink was added at M reg apparently.
Could be the sphere is dead so there's no pressure keeping the car up.
keithwalton
26-02-2007, 12:55
It seems to depend on how much load the car had before i switch it off.
If say there was 4 people in the car, i turn off, we all get out the car would rise up a good few inches upon being unloaded.
It will then make farting like noises and suddenly drop back to a more normal height or slightly lower.
Sometimes on startup it will drop down most of the way, then build pressure back up after 30 seconds.
Sounds like your accumulator and/or anti-sink sphere's have gone (can't remember if you said you'd changed your accumulator recently).
Start the car up, get it level then switch it off.
Sit in the boot and the back will go down.
After about 30 seconds it should rise back up again.
If it doesn't, then the anti-sink sphere is dead.
If there's clicking/ticking coming from the accumulator when it's level, or rising, then that sphere needs changing.
Before I changed mine, it would sink with a groan quite often when the engine was switched off.
keithwalton
27-02-2007, 10:45
Aah, will try that soon. Accumulator is as old as the hills, think i'll be replacing those 4 then when i get the money in. May as well do it with the front brakes.
Are you running stocks brakes or anything fancy ?
Nothing fancy, can't remember the brand these ones are.
On my 95 Xantia I just fitted halfords.
If you get a load of green blood coming out of a sphere (not the pipes but from inside the sphere itself) then the membrane is dead, on the suspension this would give a very hard bouncy ride, on the anti sink it'd give no anti sink, and on the accumulator you'd have no emergency brake pressure if your hydrolics failed when driving (thank goodness the handbrake is on the front wheels so that can be used!)
Do the sphere's, then the brakes, then bleed the brakes.
keithwalton
27-02-2007, 12:10
Just looked up how much all that would come to from eurocarparts, a not so small £180 :( and thats without any fluid.
I did find GSF do some 'brembo max' discs for a few pounds more than originals at £32.50+vat a time.
I'm tempted to get somthing special as they start at around £100 for a pair (incl)
Yeah i had a front sphere fail on me which went solid which is why i changed it (then added lots more fluid as it had consumed a load) i wasnt quite expecting the failed sphere to be holding fluid at high pressure.
what a difference changing the front spheres made to the car tho.
Hopefully tonight I'll be fitting the right rear spheres so the ride will be as it should.
Keeping my fingers crossed it will sort out the leveling when going from high to normal, as at the moment the front stays up high, so I have to go below normal, and as it drops set it back to normal.
I'm thinking it's because the hydractive spheres on the back take longer to fill up to pressure on my non-hydractive pipes.
Was explaining to a colleague that compared with changing normal front suspension on a car, it's a relatively simple proceedure that can take a few minutes and cost just £40 on a Xantia.
keithwalton
27-02-2007, 16:47
That reminds me of another feature mine has!
If set to low and then normal it'll just stay low, to get it to raise up i have to set it to either top or high road, let it rise then send it back down!
I've had that, though seems ok since replacing the acc and a/s spheres.
Dad went over to GSF to pick up the right spheres for my car, and they said the estate spheres aren't that great, so gave him hatchback rears (although said if I wasn't happy with them I can swap them) as they're apparently better at holding heavy loads.
Oh check the top of the front suspension struts for damage to the rubber or any rust (especially being on the south coast) as they can give way leaving a large dent in the bonnet from the inside and a large brown stain on the driver's seat!
https://www.cableforum.co.uk/images/local/2007/02/4.jpg
keithwalton
27-02-2007, 23:01
Bizzare at the sphere's i'd of thought an estate would of been designed for higher rear loads than a hatch.
Yeah checked the front struts when i changed the spheres a year ago, all is ok. typically it finally failed the day of its last mot!
As i said before there is quite abit of surface corrosion (and probably mud in with that) at the back end which should make for fun changing them.
The car hasn't been on the south coast all that long out of its total life.
Edit - Yeah seen that pic before!
Checked with some other xantia users and hatchback spheres on an estate wouldn't be go.
They're lower pressure, so have less suspension travel under load.
Saved me doing them tonight but it means I have to swap them again!
Make yourself a sphere removal tool and you shouldn't have any problems with the rear spheres, especially if you make the arm long enough, just don't turn it the wrong way like I did!
keithwalton
27-02-2007, 23:11
Yeah thats what i'd of thought as the hatch would have less weight over its tail!
gsf are bad like that! they tried giving my brother the wrong parts many of times. Mainly a pain in the **** as we used to send my dad to go pick them up as they were on the way home from work for him. He'd just pick up the box and out of 5 things getting two correct would of been good going.
My experience with euro car parts last year was good, seemed to know exactly what i wanted and matched the parts up nicely and gave me the offer of, oem, genuine or suitable other brand.
on there website its £20 for oem, £30 odd for genuine and if avaliable £14 for an alternative.
The strap wrench i borrowed last time did the job nicely they are very clever tools shall be getting one of my own :)
I went through 3 strap wrenches on the old passenger front sphere :(
keithwalton
27-02-2007, 23:14
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Oil-Filter-Strap-Wrench-60-140mm-Capacity-Sealey-AK6404?sc=9&category=175
Thats the sort of wrench i used last time, also good for getting oil filters off, much better than the chain type.
Tho i usually use the good ol' screw driver on the filter!
Yup, I can see that working!
Used to have one at work for adjusting the hight of monitors on their poles, but it went missing :(
keithwalton
27-02-2007, 23:22
yes its not at all flimsy like some of that style and its also really easy to put on more clamping pressure on the thing your trying to turn :)
I spent ages trying to get the old ones off gave up, went to engineering stores at uni to see if i could borrow somthing and he gave me one of those, got both fronts off first time in seconds!
This might be usefull with regards to differences between spheres, its odd that your's has no damping at the rear in the spheres.
http://www.gsfcarparts.com/downloads/sphere_table.pdf
From that it would suggest you have the same spec spheres as a hydractive estate however different part number
keithwalton
02-03-2007, 16:00
It seems the citrobics combined with the dropping of lhm the other day has softened up the rear suspension abit, its still lumpier than the front but nowhere near as much.
Also handling is now back to neutral -> light understeer :( it was fun having the back step out hehe
Last time the back stepped out on a Xantia I was driving, I ended up with the back wheels in a ditch and the passenger wheel pointing 90 degrees to the way the car was travelling!
Not a fun experience (thankfully I wasn't going fast) and at least it didn't roll like my 205 (again, I wasn't going fast, hmm, I can see a pattern forming...)
Drama drama drama!
Moving house over the weekend, engine developed a strange thrumming sound which I thought I'd look at after the move.
Managed to pick up 2 mates and get down to the old house ready to wait for another mate with a lorry.
Ex-mechanic friend turned up to help and I mentioned the sound to him.
Went to demonstrate by starting the car and there was an almightly clunk.
It was then I noticed that the cam belt had slipped along its sprockets and had been merrily chewing its way through the plastic covers!
So I think the cam shaft has gone again (probably the clunk).
It's currently with Citroen, don't know when they'll get a chance to look at it.
Think I'll go for a new head this time rather than just replace the cam shaft.
handyman
05-03-2007, 09:31
hmm, have you not thought of replacing the car for something less French and ergo more reliable and well built?
hmm, have you not thought of replacing the car for something less French and ergo more reliable and well built?
What's unreliable about it?
Cambelt snapped at the end of last year because the milage the history showed that the belt was last changed was wrong, and I was due to change it a week later for free from the garage I bought it from (bloody ironic!).
I replaced the broken parts and she ran beautifully for months until now.
It's probably due to incorrectly set tensioners, or 2nd hand cam caps breaking.
I knew the risks in just replacing the camshaft and caps, and at the time I couldn't afford any different.
Of all the cars I've ever owned, 6 were french (4 with over 100K on the clock, 1 with 76K I did in it, and another with 60K on the clock when I had to sell it), 2 were german.
The german ones were the least reliable, engine managment system on one kept trying to cut the fuel while driving along the motorway, handbrake locked up, battery charging circuit died, fusebox melted (surely the fuse box should be made of plasic that can withstand temperatures higher than a 20A fuse reaches?) on the other one to name just a few of their problems.
In total my family has had nearly 20 PSA cars (and a couple of Renaults), all of them ran without major problems.
My second 205 had a lucas pump which needed replacing after 150K.
Dad's Xantia had a problem where if it wasn't driven for a month, the alarm system ran the battery down.
My Laguna II had an injector sensor issue which just required rebooting the car, oh and the headlight spray stalks would stick if they weren't cleaned.
My current Xantia needed the relay mod applied to the blower fan.
In total over the years, my family have covered more than a million miles in French cars, most of it getting over 50mpg, with only the problems above.
What's badly built about an engine that runs without trouble after being filled with water then drained?
Or able to run on 100% veg oil?
Or just replace the broken parts after a cambelt snapping and still run? (I know of 6 other engines that this happened to, and they're still running so it's something I did, like not tension the belt properly, or not being able to replace the rollers).
Dad's renault 9 out in Saudi only stopped running when a massive tipper truck drove over the passenger side ;)
keithwalton
05-03-2007, 10:54
That sucks, sorry to hear its happend again, the xud's are normaly quite indestructable.
What mod was needed to the blower fan ? (what does it achieve)
Electrics are always a fickle thing on french cars they without fail will have some quirck to them.
Running on 100% veggie is good going must not be very cold up there! Just a quick Q, what sort of temps do you get running on the stuff does your car heat up faster when your going slowly compared to running on derv ?
It's an experience owning french cars, they are far from dull and always keep you on your toes!
The 205 was good going! they are notoriously unreliable past 100k odd miles! (my housemate used to have one and just about everything going broke on it incl head gasket, gear linkages, cv joints, wheel bearings to name just a few)
My Xantia has currently done just under 112k miles with only the front (and soon to be rear spheres) the only things to be changed that are not standard.
Someone at Citroen thought it would be a good idea to have the power for the blower go through the ignition switch.
After 7 years or so, this tends to start burning out the switch and the voltage drops, so the blower stops working.
You can either open the steering wheel surround and wire in a relay so the ignition switch trips the relay which then powers the blower (there's normally enough power left in the ignition switch to do this, as the rear heater relay comes off the same switch), or do what I did and wire in the relay under the glove box by the blower itself drawing power form the cigar lighter socket.
I know it's a mod for the climate control modes (with Auto blower speed setting), not sure if it's different in other spec cars.
Citroen built in this mod from 98 onwards I think.
keithwalton
05-03-2007, 11:15
I see, dont think i've had that sort of problem. But then i have the entry level lx spec and hardly use the blower anyway especially as its winter.
Mine conked out on my when we had the snow, and took the rear heater with it.
Fixed it while running an extension lead to the back seat of the car for the work light and electric heater just to stop me getting hypothermia while working with my legs out the passenger door!
Didn't take long to do, soldering in the footwell was fun.
keithwalton
05-03-2007, 16:55
Rear heater you say :) mine does not have one of those
Rear heater you say :) mine does not have one of those
In that it doesn't work, or that you don't have one stuck to the rear window? :disturbd:
keithwalton
06-03-2007, 00:34
oh you meant heated windscreen, i have that and it works lol. Thought you meant a rear heater matrix / blower for back seat passengers (bmw i used to drive had one mounted in the centre console arm rest bit)
Talking of BMW and reliability, a colleague woke up this morning to discover that during the night, while it was raining cats and dogs, her 1 series BMW decided it would be a good idea to lower the front windows by 3/4
2 inches of water in the cup holders, footwell, electrics etc.
Lovely.
keithwalton
07-03-2007, 18:43
Argh is about all i can say!
Just tried to change the rear spheres on my xant and they would just not budge, the only movement i got was turning the whole hydraulic unit and bent the support for the pipe on one side slightly.
It did have a wierd feature though, when jacking at the rear the suspension travel extendid and the wheels went up as they would on a normal car.
However jacking up from the front of the car (to get under to do the accumulator) the rear wheel almost stayed put and lifted up of the ground straight away.
Somthing abit odd there. If only these spheres were as accesible as the fronts!
I tried to remove the spheres with the car on the ground but just couldnt get under there to get any sort of moment on it.
keithwalton
08-03-2007, 02:54
Having done a hunt around the web it seems my problem is fairly common especially when they are corroded / ingress of salt.
They tend to recomend setting the car to high securing it with stands and then use the pressure of the system to hold the suspension in place whilst you loosen the spheres a touch (1/2 to one turn) then depressurise the system and remove. Is the anti sink the same do you know ? I couldn't be bothered to remove the AR bar to get at it properly.
I didn't need to remove anything to get to the A/S with my tool, but then the loop is only M6 width.
I just had to get the car up on ramps, depressurise it, unscrew the pipe from the A/S which was not easy as I didn't have a suitable spanner, and there's not much movement space for pliers, so it took a while. Best spanner is a pipe spanner, like a hex ring spanner but with a notch cut out so you can put it round the pipe.
Once the pipe is out, just cracked the A/S free with the tool, then span it off by hand (rubber gloves helped!)
In addition to setting the car on high to free the rear spheres, try and put loads of weight in the boot too.
keithwalton
08-03-2007, 17:05
Just tried it again and with the car set to high the struts stayed still but the spheres didnt budge, i suspected the halfords strap wrench i got on the quick wasnt up for the job so went for a hunt for another one and couldnt find one in southampton that would give me more torque.
Went to the citroen dealer and they were clueless about where to find the tool but just happend to have an express service centre which could do the job for me for a neat £50+vat!
Alas i then tried again and broke the cheap strap wrench :( i am tempted to go out and get a hammer and chissel and do it the brute force way.
Though i need my car for sunday so dont want to wreck it in the mean time but i'd rather have the smoother ride.
Dont know where around here i'd get that decent leather strap wrench, I may try and wangle the one i borrowed before from engineering stores.
Go to B&Q
Buy a length of box bar from their metal bin.
Buy a length of M6 threaded rod.
Buy 2 M6 washers
Buy 2 M6 nuts.
When no one is looking, bend the bar around a lamp post so it's U shaped.
Drill two holes slightly larger than M6 size through one end of the box bar and insert the U (making the tool look like a P ).
Cut off the excess threaded bar from the U
Use the washers and nuts to tighten the U around the sphere and then turn the box bar the right way (lefty loosie) to undo.
If you like, I could pop down on Saturday if I'm free (will talk to my gf) and I'll bring my tool and ramps+axle stands (unless you have ramps+axle stands)
keithwalton
08-03-2007, 21:16
Thanks for the offer but think i'll get there eventually! They're not urgently in need of change as they still work just not at there best.
I have made the contraption you described I shall try it out properly tomorrow (needid more clamping force) that and i didnt have much light to work with etc
Replaced the acc and a/s spheres on my 2.1TD tonight, all went well until I noticed bubbling from the pipe nut as I screwed it back into the a/s sphere.
The rubber seal has perished so lhm is pee-ing out.
Got someone from FCF coming over tomorrow with a replacement :)
handyman
10-03-2007, 21:50
What's unreliable about it?
Was not specifically your car I was on about. After working in the car trade it's fairly obvious that psa cars where not as reliable as others. They are not a patch on the build quality and reliability of the Korean and Japanese cars.
Dunno about PSA petrols, wouldn't touch a petrol with a 10 foot barge pole, gutless wheezing things (in general not just PSA).
Their diesels are rock solid though, well until Ford got involved and invented the self destructing HDi engine.
Dunno about PSA petrols, wouldn't touch a petrol with a 10 foot barge pole, gutless wheezing things (in general not just PSA).
Their diesels are rock solid though, well until Ford got involved and invented the self destructing HDi engine.
Oi ive got a petrol xantia and it aint a gutless wheezing thing ;)
One of the quickest cars ive had especially round corners:Sprint:
keithwalton
12-03-2007, 15:12
the 2l turbo petrol was quite somthing :) and well our diesels can go round the corners just as fast :)
2.1TD aye Xac, good luck with that! its got a hydraulic clutch hasnt it rather than your old cable operated jobby.
It's quite abit more power though for only 200cc more. (22% more power for 10.5% more swept volume)
Tis lovely :D
Just wish they'd fitted them with bosh pumps instead of lucas!
the 2l turbo petrol was quite somthing :) and well our diesels can go round the corners just as fast :)
2.1TD aye Xac, good luck with that! its got a hydraulic clutch hasnt it rather than your old cable operated jobby.
It's quite abit more power though for only 200cc more. (22% more power for 10.5% more swept volume)
Mines got a hydraulic clutch as well , and its a bit quicker than normal 2l turbo ;)
It corners a tad faster than your diesels:Sprint:
Mines got a hydraulic clutch as well , and its a bit quicker than normal 2l turbo ;)
It corners a tad faster than your diesels:Sprint:
Activa or VSX?
You couldn't take a photo of the altenator could you, or any model numbers from it?
A friend thinks the previous owner of his fitted the wrong one.
Pm sent , no probs mate il have a look .
keithwalton
13-03-2007, 21:46
aah the activia's are good, when they're working. Not many around these days with the system fully functioning
Pm sent , no probs mate il have a look .
He managed to source a suitable altenator, and after also changing the water pump apparently it's running lovely now, thanks for the help :)
I'm going to pop the top off my cam housing this evening to see what damage has occured on my 1.9
aah the activia's are good, when they're working. Not many around these days with the system fully functioning
Mines an old car now :cry: R plate .
just after christmas , new front ram , new rad , new back box , new batt , 4 new tyres , pirrelli p6ks .
Best part of a grand , i thought about cutting my losses but i couldnt find another car that i fancyed ,,,,,,,, ok il admit i love my xant :romance:
Sad git i know :)
Found that my bosch fuel pump had seized causing the belt to slip.
Pretty unheard of for boschs to go, but I heard squealing from one of the cambelt devices before it went so it looks like the bearing in it has collapsed.
Got a new one on it's way from ebay :)
May have lost the cam again, but that's not too bad, got more time to get a replacement now :)
keithwalton
15-03-2007, 14:40
You were running 100% SVO at times werent you Xac' could that of lead to the failure of the pump or is it just a case of its as old as the hills and was going to let go anyway.
It would be anoying if it took the camshaft with it still at least we've only got the one shaft and 8 valves to worry about!
SVO isn't likely to have done it, when the belt snapped last year, it was hard and clunky to turn the pump so it wasn't in best condition to start with.
Could be the tensioners weren't changed at the last cambelt change back at 50K ish miles and with the belt snapping maybe it damaged the bearing.
Got a friend who wants to dismantle it so we'll find out.
At least with it off the engine, I can check the glow plugs at lot easier, and the replacement is from a pre-immobiliser Xantia so no problems with the keypad.
Update on the 1.9TD, pump is fine, we thought we'd cleared the belt enough to turn its pulley but it was catching out of sight hence why it wasn't turning.
Cam's also fine too :)
One of the nuts on the cam belt tensioner came off, the roller bent and started pushing the belt off the engine.
So I just need to clean all the tiny cam belt filings off the side of the engine, get the crank pulley off and put a new cam kit on and she should be up and running, ready for sale :D
The 2.1 I've got now has new spheres all round and the ride is lovely.
The airsoft site I go to has the remains of a WW2 inspection bay with large brick ramps, perfect for working under the car and removing spheres.
Found the back box of my exhaust isn't clamped to the rest properly so is leaking gas causing a whislte over 3500rpm, so have some putty to sort that out.
The rear driver's sphere blasted lhm at me like your sphere did!
Seems to be where it's gas level is too low to return the lhm to the resivour, so when you take it off (which was really tough) it's able to release the pressure and sprays you with lhm!
Had citrojim's Activa up on the ramps too, and his hydractive and activa spheres would not budge even with my tool (it was just bending!) so he visited DickiG (I think) who's got a plaides tool and that just about managed it.
So all is well, especially now my boost issue has cleared itself up and my 2.1 flies along :D
andrewmhmusic
01-03-2011, 10:16
Guys, can you change the Xantia oil on high suspension rather than jacking the car up? There are no problems doing it as I have done it 20 times... BUT does all the oil drain at that angle? Does it make it harder for the oil to drain? Not all the oil seems 2 come out?!?!? Please advise, Thanks, Andrew
I think you might be better off asking here:
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/threads.htm?f=4
Someone at Citroen thought it would be a good idea to have the power for the blower go through the ignition switch.
After 7 years or so, this tends to start burning out the switch and the voltage drops, so the blower stops working.
You can either open the steering wheel surround and wire in a relay so the ignition switch trips the relay which then powers the blower (there's normally enough power left in the ignition switch to do this, as the rear heater relay comes off the same switch), or do what I did and wire in the relay under the glove box by the blower itself drawing power form the cigar lighter socket.
I know it's a mod for the climate control modes (with Auto blower speed setting), not sure if it's different in other spec cars.
Citroen built in this mod from 98 onwards I think.
Hi there mate my blower has just stopped working and i was wondering if you can explain how i wire a relay in?
A wiring diagram would be useful as i have no experiance of car wiring
Thanks Terry
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